; 679 
D83 



lopy 1 





FARMER'S HANDBOOK 



INSTRUCTIONS 
IN THE USE OF 
DYNAMITE 
FOR 
CLEARING LAND 
PLANTING AND 
CULTIVATING 
TREES, DRAIN- 
AGE, DITCHING 
AND SUBSOILING 



Copyright, 1911 

E. I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co. 

Established 1802 

Wilmington, Delaware 



INDEX ^\ 

— 'V^ 

B 

Blgtree Stumps 36 

Blasting, Principle of 9 

Blasting Caps 20 

Blasting Machines 22 

Blasting Powder : Description and Use 5 

Blasting Supplies 20 

Blockholing 47 

Boulder Blasting 44 

Branch Offices 4th cover 

c 

Caps, Blasting 20 

Cap Crimpers 22 

Cedar Stumps 34 

Cellar Excavating 56 

Charging 13 

Connecting Wire 24 

Cypress Stumps 40 

D 

Ditching 48 

Don'ts 67 

Draining Swamps and Ponds 53 

Dynamite : Description and Use 5 

E 

Electric Blasting 19 

Electric Fuzes 10 

Exploding Dynamite, Method of II 

Explosives : Description and Explanation 5 

F 

Felling Trees 40 

Fir Stumps 34 

Firing 15 

Foundation Excavating 56 

Fuse 21 

Fuse Lengths, Table of 16 



£CI.A304824 

m.t 



^INDEX CONTINUED 



C7>. 



H 

Handling Dynamite 16 

Hardpan Blasting, Cost of 60 

Hardpan Blasting, Directions for 58 

, How to Get Special Information 70 

; I 

" Ice Blasting 62 

Instructions for Agricultural Blasting 30 

L 

Leading Wire 24 

Log Jam Starting 66 

Log Splitting 42 

M 

Mudcapping, Cost of 46 

Mudcapping, Directions for 46 

o 

Ordering 26 

P 

Pine Stumps, Southern 33 

Pine Stumps, Western 34 

Pipe Line Trenching 5 7 

Priming II 

Pole and Post Hole Digging 58 

R 

Redwood Stumps 36 

Reliable Blasting Machines 22 

Road Building 56 

s 

Safety Fuse 21 

Safety Precautions 67 

Second-Growth Stumps 40 

Snakeholing , 47 

Southern Yellow Pine Stumps 33 

Splitting Stumps and Logs 42 

Storing Dynamite 17 

Stump Blasting, Cost of 33 

Stump Blasting, Directions for . . 30 

Subsoil Blasting, Cost of 60 

Subsoil Blasting, Directions for 58 

Swamp Draining 53 

3 



INDEX CONTINUED 



T 

Tamping 15 

Thawing 17 

Thawing Ketlles 24 

Tile Trenching 57 

Tools Used in Blasting 27 

Tree Felling 40 

Tree Planting and Cultivating, Cost of 62 

Tree Planting and Cultivating, Directions for 60 

V 

Victor Electric Fuzes 22 

W 

Well Sinking 57 

Western Cedar Stumps 34 

Western Fir Stumps 34 

Western Pine Stumps 34 

Wire, Connecting 24 

Wire, Leading . 24 

Y - . -:• ' - - ^-:t-' 

Yellow Pine Stumps, Southern 33 



EXPLOSIVES 



EXPLOSIVES are solids or liquids which can be changed 
almost instantaneously by a spark, great heat or powerful 
shock into gases having many hundred times the volume of 
the explosive in its original form. Coal and wood are changed slowly 
into large volumes of gas by burning; water is changed slowly also 
into a large volume of gas (steam) by heating it. This is the whole 
theory of explosives, and much in their use, which would otherwise 
seem difficult to explain, is easily understood if this theory be borne 
in mind. 

Blastmg Explosives are divided into two classes — Low Ex- 
plosives, or Blasting Powder, which are exploded by a spark, and 
High Explosives, commonly known as dynamite, w^hich are ex- 
ploded by a hard, sharp shock. 

BLASTING POWDER 

Blasting Powder is black and is produced in granulations or 
grains of various sizes. It is packed in bulk in steel or pulp kegs con- 
taining twenty-five pounds. Although it is invaluable for many kinds 
of coal mine, quarry and general excavating, it is not generally ap- 
plicable to any blasting about the farm except for splitting logs, as 
described on page 42. 

DYNAMITE 

There are numerous kinds of high explosives or dynamite, each 
having some particular property which makes it different from every 
other kind. Almost every kind is made in several different strengths. 
Some kinds lose strength very quickly when they are put in water 
and especially in warm water. Other are affected very little by 
water unless it is quite warm. Some kinds will burn if a spark falls 
on them and most kinds can be burned if put in a fire. It is exceed- 
ingly dangerous therefore to leave dynamite where it can be ignited 
in any way, because when hot or burning it is very sensitive and often 
explodes. 

5 



KINDS OF EXPLOSIVES 

When dynamite is handled with bare hands it nearly always 
causes a headache. Old gloves should therefore always be worn 
when using it and they should be destroyed and clean ones provided 
before they become damp and sticky. A pair of gloves will remain 
in good condition for a long time if the dynamite is handled carefully. 

There is a popular misconception of dynamite in the public 
mind. Newspapers in reporting outrages such as bomb throwing by 
anarchists, safe cracking " jobs " by burglars, etc., incorrectly report 
them as perpetrated with " Dynamite." The result is an erroneous, 
widespread impression that a dynamite cartridge will explode if 
dropped on the ground or thrown against the body of a person. 

As a matter of fact, safe breakers and bomb throwers do not 
use dynamite cartridges at all; they would not be suitable for their 
purpose because it is so difficult to explode them. What these 
criminals use as a rule is nitro-glycerin. This dangerous explosive is 
used commercially for shooting oil wells, etc. 

True there is a certain proportion of nitro-glycerin in dynamite 
cartridges, but that dangerous liquid is scientifically compounded 
with wood pulp, and other ingredients in such a way that dynamite 
can be absolutely depended upon not to explode accidentally if our 
simple and plain instructions for its use are complied with. 

Responsible people can use and handle dynamite just as safely 
as they can handle gasoline, matches, or coal oil. The energy of 
dynamite can be directed in the work to which it is adapted nearly as 
well as the energy of steam can be directed in the work for which it 
IS used. 

The different kinds of dynamite principally used in farm work 
are nitro-glycerin dynamite. Extra dynamite and gelatin dyna- 
mite. Gelatin dynamite in bulk has somewhat the appearance of 
moderately stiff putty. The others look like very fine damp saw- 
dust. For convenience in handling, dynamite is made up into car- 
tridges or " sticks " by packing it firmly into paper cylinders. The 
standard cartridges are 1 '/4 inches in diameter and eight inches long. 
Gelatin dynamite cartridges of this size weigh about nine ounces 
each and those of the other dynamites about a half pound each. 
Dynamite is also put up in cartridges ^ inch, 1 inch, 1 Yl inches and 



KINDS 



O F 



EXPLOSIVES 



1 % inches in diameter — all 8 inches long. Dynamite cartridges are 
packed with a little sawdust in neat and substantially made wooden 
cases containing fifty pounds of dynamite. 

TABLE SHOWING THE AGRICULTURAL WORK IN WHICH THE USE 

OF DYNAMITE WILL SAVE MONEY AND TIME, AND THE MOST 

SUITABLE BRAND AND STRENGTH OF DYNAMITE FOR IT 



KIND OF WORK 



BRAND AND STRENGTH 
OF EXPLOSIVE 



Boulder Blasting 

Cellar and Foundation Excavating. . 

Ditching 

Fruit 1 ree Planting and Cultivating 

Hardpan or Subsoil Blasting 

Log Splitting 

Log or Ice Jam Starting 

Pipe or Tile Line Trenching 

Pole or Post Hole Digging. 

Road Grading . 

Swamp Draining 

Stump Blasting 

Tree Felling 

Well Sinking 



Hercules 60 V Dynamite 

Red Cross 40 'r Extra Dynamite 

Atlas or Hercules 60 ',r Dynamite 

Red Cross 25 ^ Extra Dynamite 

Red Cross 25'/ Extra Dynamite 

Red Cross 40 '/c Extra Dynamite or Du Pont 

Blasting Powder 
Red Cross 40 ';r Dynamite 

Extra Dynamite 
Extra Dynamite 
Extra Dynamite 
Extra Dynamite 
Extra Dynamite, or Hercules 
or Judson Powder 



Red Cross 40 '/, 
Red Cross 40 '/, 
Red Cross 40 '/, 
Red Cross 40 >> 
Red Cross 40; 

Powder-Stumping, L. F. 

R. R. P. 



Red Cross 40^^ Extra Dynamite 
Hercules 40% Gelatin Dynamite 



For other blasting about the farm, as in grading for dams and 
bridge piers, breaking stone for concrete, opening failing springs, 
loosening flood gates, opening frozen log rollways, opening frozen 
water holes for stock, etc., it is a good rule to use Red Cross 40% 
Dynamite in very wet work and Red Cross 40% Extra Dynamite if 
the work is not wet. 





^ HERCULES GEI,A"-|N 




PRINCIPLE OF BLASTING 

PRINCIPLE OF BLASTING 

When dynamite explodes, that is, when the small mass of dyna- 
mite is changed into a very large volume of hot gases, these gases exert 
a strong pushing force equally in every direction because they require 
a much larger space than the dynamite which produced them. If 
the dynamite is shut up in a space just large enough to hold it, that 
IS, if it is closely confined before it is exploded, the gases in escaping 
to the open, force out and carry along with them the material which 
shuts them in. 

These gases, pressing equally in every direction, will escape 
principally where there is the least pressure to hold them in, that 
is, along the lines of least resistance, and will force out the material 
confining them more in that direction than in any other. If the back 
pressure holding them in is about the same over the top and on all 
sides, then they will carry with them, or break up as they escape, 
a large amount of the material which shuts them in, but if one place 
in the earth or rock around them is much weaker than all of the 
rest then the pressure will force through there and the gases will escape 
without doing as much work as they should. 

It must be remembered, then, that in order to have a charge of 
dynamite do good work it must be so placed that the holding-in pres- 
sure is as nearly as possible the same on top and all sides of it. If a 
charge of dynamite explodes properly the change into gases is almost 
instantaneous, although some time is always required and some kinds 
of dynamite explode — or " detonate," as it is often called — more 
rapidly than others. 

Sometimes a charge of dynamite explodes imperfectly or may 
even burn partly or entirely. When only part of the charge explodes 
so little work may be accomplished that it will have to be done over 
again. The gases given off by burning dynamite are quite differ- 
ent from those of properly exploded dynamite and are often very 
poisonous. Imperfect detonation is usually caused by the use of 
weak detonators or dynamite that is insensitive because of being 
frozen or chilled. 

Chilled or frozen dynamite will never do good work. The other 
principal causes of poor results in blasting are insufficient tamping or 
the improper location of the charge. Poor results may also be due to 
too large or too small a charge or to the use of the wrong strength or 
wrong kind of dynamite. 



PRINCIPLE OF BLASTING 

Dynamite when used for blasting is exploded by a detonator. 
There are two styles of detonators, one known as a blasting cap and 
the other as an electric fuze (pronounced fu-zee). Both are small 
copper cylinders about a quarter of an inch in diameter and from one 
and a half to two inches long, which contain a small quantity of very 
powerful explosive. This explosive is quite sensitive to shock and a 



BLASTING CAP AND FUSE 

hard, sharp blow may explode it, so detonators must be carefully 
handled. This explosive can also be detonated by heat and this 
method is employed to detonate it when using blasting caps or electric 
fuzes. The heat to detonate a blasting cap is provided by the spark 
from a piece of fuse, one end of which has been pushed into the open 
end of the blasting cap, and fastened there by squeezing the blasting 
cap on to it with a cap crimper. When the other end of the fuse is 
lighted it burns slowly through and when the fire reaches the blast- 
ing cap it explodes. 



■^^^3 



Hw^ 



t~.-.'.--J^T ~ 




E 

ELECTRIC FUZE CROSS SECTION 



"A" is the shell of copper, having a corrugation thrown out from the inside, which holds the 
composition plug more firmly in place ; "B" is the chamber containing the explosive charge ; "C, 
the insulated copper wires entering the cap ; "D," the bare ends of the copper wires, projecting 
through the plug into the charge ; "E," the small platinum wire or "bridge" soldered to and con- 
necting the two ends of the copper wires, which is heated by the electric current ; "F," the com- 
position plug holding the fuze wires firmly in place; "G," the filling material. 

Electric fuzes have two insulated copper wires sealed in the 
cap. The tips of these wires inside of the cap are bare and joined 
together by a platinum wire finer than a thread. When the electric 
current passes through the electric fuze it makes the platinum wire 
hot enough to detonate the explosive in the copper cap. 

Although No. 3, No. 4 and No. 5 detonators may be bought, 
nothing weaker than the No. 6 (red label) can be depended on to 
properly explode dynamite. 

10 



PRINCIPLE OF BLASTING 

When more than one charge of dynamite is to be exploded at 
the same instant, the blasting must be done electrically. If the 
charges are too far apart for the electric fuze wires to be connected 
directly together it is necessary to use connecting wire to join them. 

The electric current for detonating electric fuzes is produced by 
a blasting machine and is carried to the electric fuzes through lead- 
ing wire. 

METHOD OF EXPLODING DYNAMITE 

The charge of dynamite is exploded by the shock and heat 
caused by the bursting detonator, and the detonator, to do its work 
properly, must be closely surrounded by the dynamite, because the 
air in the open space between the detonator and the dynamite acts 
as a cushion when the detonator explodes and lessens the shock to 
the dynamite. This may result in an imperfect explosion of the dyna- 
mite with but little work done. When the charge of dynamite is all 
pressed together in a mass one detonator is sufficient to explode it. 
If it is strung out for fifteen or twenty feet in a deep bore hole it is 
generally best to use two detonators. 

PRIMING 

Placing the detonator in the cartridge of dynamite is called prim- 
ing it, and the cartridge with the detonator in it is called the primer 
cartridge or primer. When the charge consists of more than one 
cartridge the primer should generally be loaded last. 

The first step in the preparation of the primer, when using fuse 
and blasting cap, is to cut the necessary length of fuse from the roll, 
cutting it squarely across and not diagonally. After carefully insert- 
ing the fresh cut end as far as it will go into the blasting cap, the 
latter should be securely fastened to the fuse with a cap crimper. 
When crimping the blasting cap to the fuse, the crimp should be 
made near the end which the fuse enters so as not to disturb in any 
way the explosive which the blasting cap contains. An attempt to 
crimp the blasting cap near the other end would be likely to cause 
it to explode. The crimp should be made secure enough to prevent 



TAKING OUT CAP 




;UTTING FUSE 





PLACING CAP ON FUSE 




MAKING HOLE IN TOP 
OF CARTRIDGE 




FOLDING CARTRIDGE 
PAPER AROUND FUSE 




INSERTING 
FUSE AND CAP IN 
CARTRIDGE 




TYING CARTRIDGE 

PAPER AROUND FUSE tS,.--*' 



1ETHOD OF MAKING A PRIMER WITH BLASTING CAP AND FUSE 



EXPLODING DYNAMITE 

the fuse from pulling out of the blasting cap, during the charging and 
tamping of the bore hole, and, what is quite as important, particu- 
larly in wet work, the crimp should be tight enough to keep water 
out of the blasting cap. A coating of soap, tallow or thick grease 
spread over the fuse where it enters the blasting cap will help greatly 
to keep the water out. This grease should not be applied until after 
the blasting cap has been crimped to the fuse. Oil should not be 
used for this purpose as it may soak into the fuse and damage it. 

Be sure to cut the fuse long enough to allow it to extend several 
inches from the mouth of the bore hole when the primer is in place, 
and also long enough for the blaster to reach a place of safety before 
the charge explodes. Fuse burns from two to three feet per minute. 

Next take the dynamite cartridge and unfold the paper at one 
end. Then make a hole with a sharp stick, about the size of a lead 
pencil, or with the rounded handle of the cap crimper, straight down 
in the dynamite. This hole should not be any deeper than the length 
of the blasting cap. Into this hole push the blasting cap attached to 
the fuse, and press the dynamite closely around it. Then gather the 
paper around the fuse and tie it securely with a piece of strong twine, 
and the primer is made. When the detonator is an electric fuze the 
primer is made exactly the same way, but no fuse is used, the electric 
wires already sealed in the copper cap taking its place. 

When a half cartridge is enough for the charge, each end of 
the whole cartridge should be primed as described above and it should 
then be cut in two in the middle with a case knife, not with a folding 
pocket knife. This does not mean that a charge of half a cartridge 
should be primed at both ends, but simply that in preparing two 
charges of a half cartridge each, it is better to do the priming for both 
charges before cutting the cartridge in two. 

CHARGING 

Having primed the cartridge in the manner described, insert it 
in the bore hole and push it carefully home. Putting the explosive 
into the bore hole is called charging or loading the bore hole. It is 
sometimes well in dry ground to slit the paper shells lengthwise on one 
or two sides with a sharp knife before putting the cartridges into the 

13 



EXPLODING DYNAMITE 

bore hole, as a slit cartridge will spread out in the bore hole better. 
The primer should not be slit. Push the cartridges, except the primer 
cartridge, firmly into place with a wooden stick so that they will 
expand and fill up the diameter of the hole, for crevices or air spaces 
greatly lessen the power of an explosive. The primer is loaded last 
and is pushed down only hard enough to be sure that it touches the 
preceding cartridge. Each cartridge must touch the one previously 
loaded, for if any space between the cartridges occurs through falling 
dirt or stones, or through the sticking of a cartridge in the bore hole, a 
part of the charge may fail to explode. 

TAMPING 

After the charge is pressed home, as directed, put in two or 
three inches of fine dirt or sand, and with a wooden stick press it 
gently on top of the dynamite. This is called tamping the charge. 
Then fill up two or three inches more of the hole, packing it in a 
little more firmly. After five or six inches of tamping covers the 
charge, it may be pressed firmly into place without danger of prema- 
ture explosion. The tamping material should be packed as firmly on 
top of the charge as can be done without moving the electric fuze 
or blasting cap, in the primer, but it is not safe to tamp by a blow 
any stronger than can be given by hand. Fill the bore hole up with 
tamping until even with the surface. The firmer and harder the 
tampmg can be made (without overlooking the above precautions) 
the better will be the results. If the bore hole is not properly tamped, 
the charge is likely to " blow out," or at any rate some of its force 
will be wasted. 

Be sure the tamping is done with a wooden stick. Never use 
a metal bar or anything having metal parts. 

HOME MADE TAMPING STICK 

FIRING 

Exploding the charge is called firing and there are two or three 
important points to remember about firing. The principal one is 
never to light the fuse or operate the blasting machine until after an 
unmistakable signal has been given, warning everybody near that 
you are about to fire, or until you know everybody is far enough 
away not to be injured by the material thrown into the air by the blast. 



EXPLODING 



DYNAMITE 



When firing electrically make it a rule never to connect the leading 
wire to the blasting machine until everything else is ready for the 
blast. This will prevent some inexperienced person from accidentally 
operating the blasting machine and exploding the charge before the 
person doing the blasting has had time to get away from the bore 
holes. Another important rule is to never hurry about investigating 
a misfire. Sometimes the charge does not explode exactly when it 
should, but does explode a little later. This rarely if ever occurs 
when firing electrically, but is not so infrequent when fuse is used, 
because careless tamping sometimes tears or abrades fuse so that it 
will burn very slowly. A misfire with fuse should not be investigated 
for half an hour and it is much better to wait a full hour. Always 
fire just as soon as possible after tamping. In fact, priming, chargmg, 
tamping and firing should be done as quickly as it is possible to do 
them thoroughly, because wet or even damp ground may injure the 
dynamite or even the detonator to at least some extent, and in cold 
weather the dynamite may become chilled or frozen which makes it 
insensitive. 

TABLE OF FUSE LENGTHS 

This table is based on an average burning speed of Crescent Fuse o( 3 feet per minute. How- 
ever, fuse that has been loosely tolled — thus admitting more fl//' to the powder train inside the fu;e, 
will burn more rapidly. Also, fuse in lightly tamped holes, being under pressure, burns more 
rapidly. In extreme cases the speed reaches 5 feet per minute. In subsoiling, as there is very 
little material thrown up, the fuse may safely be cut just long enough to reach from the primed 
cartridge of dynamite to a few inches above the surface of the ground. But in stump blasting, ditch- 
ing and especially in boulder blasting, it is necessary to use a fuse long enough to allow the blaster 
plenty of time to run far enough away to be out of reach of flying stones or sections of stumps. 
When a safe distance has been reached keep the eyes on the stump or boulder until the blast 
occurs, then look up for falling pieces. 



Stump Blasting 
























Time 
Required 

Distance 
to run 


Least 
Fuse 
Length 


Mudcapping 
Boulder 


Snakeholing 
Boulder 


Blockhoiing 
Bould.r 


r>. , . Subsoiling 
Ditching -p ni • 

Tree Planting 


200 
ft. 

300 
ft. 

400 
ft. 


1 ir.in. 3 ft 
Umin. 4.Ht. 

2 min. 6 ft. 

1 


200 
ft. 


1 min. 


3 ft. 


400 2 min 


6 ft. 


400 
ft. 


2 min. 


6 ft. 


400 
ft. 


2 min. 


|25 ft. * * 
*T he length of fi:se 
in subsoiling and 
tree plantinK i 6e- 
. . termined solely by 
6"- ihe depth of the 
hole. 



HANDLING 

Du Pont Dynamite is not so sensitive to shock that it is likely 
to explode from a jar or even from dropping it a considerable dis- 
tance. It is made just as insensitive as practicable so that it will be 
comparatively safe to handle and use, and this is why a strong de- 

16 



HANDLING DYNAMITE 

tonator is necessary to explode it properly. Nevertheless it should be 
handled sensibly and carefully and only by responsible persons. 

Detonators are more sensitive than dynamite to shock, friction 
and heat and must always be handled carefully. Fuse does not 
explode. 

STORING 

As soon as explosives are received they should be stored in a 
dry, properly ventilated building, far enough away from dwellings 
or roads to prevent loss of life if they were to explode accidentally. 
They should be kept under lock and key and where children or 
irresponsible persons cannot get at them. If large quantities are to 
be stored, a dry, well-ventilated, fire-proof and bullet-proof magazine, 
located in an out of the way place should be provided. Detonators 
must never be stored in the same building with dynamite because 
they are more easily exploded than dynamite and it would be pos- 
sible to explode them accidentally by a shock or jar which would not 
explode dynamite. If detonators were to explode by themselves they 
would be unlikely to do much damage unless there were a great many 
of them, but if they were to explode in the same room with dynamite 
they would probably cause the dynamite to explode too, and this 
might do very serious damage. 

THAWING 

Most dynamite freezes even before water does and will noi 
explode at all, or only very imperfectly, when in that condition. 
Even if chilled it cannot be depended on to work well. Red Cross 
Dynamite is an exception to this rule, for it does not become insensi- 
tive until the weather is cold enough to freeze water and often not 
until it is much colder than that. Other dynamite usually chills or 
freezes at temperatures of 45° to 50° F. 

Frozen dynamite is easily recognized because it is hard and rigid, 
but in cool weather when the dynamite is not frozen it is sometimes 
difficult to be sure whether it is not too much chilled to explode prop- 
erly. It is necessary, therefore, when using dynamite in cold or even 
cool weather, to be sure that the cartridges are warm and soft clear 
through when the bore hole is charged. 

If, after the thawed dynamite is ready to use, something causes 
a delay and it becomes chilled or frozen before it can be put into 

17 



HANDLING DYNAMITE 

the bore hole, it should be thawed again. It does not harm dynamite 
to thaw it many times, provided this is done in the right way. 

Red Cross Dynamite, if loaded in the ground below the frost 
line and properly tamped, will not freeze again, but other dynamite 
will chill or freeze almost immediately when loaded in cold ground, 
so that it is absolutely necessary to fire it immediately after charging 
and even then it is probably too insensitive to explode with full 
force. It is this that makes Red Cross Dynamite so valuable in 
cold weather. Although it may freeze when the weather is cold 
enough to freeze water, it freezes very slowly and sometimes it will 
remain unfrozen indefinitely even in much colder weather. 

The best way to thaw dynamite, and to keep it thawed until it 
is to be loaded, is in a thawing kettle made for the purpose. Dyna- 
mite may be thawed by leaving it spread out on a shelf in a warm 
room over night, or by burying it, while in the case, in manure. It 
may also be thawed by putting it in a covered, water-tight pail and 
hanging this pail in warm water, and it may be carried to the work in 
any kind of dry bucket or box if covered with an old coat, piece of 
blanket, or something similar to keep it warm. It is exceedingly 
dangerous to try to thaw dynamite in front of an open fire, or in hot 
sand, or on hot stones, or metal or steam pipes, or in an oven. It is 
in attempting to thaw dynamite in some of these ways that accidents 
frequently happen. It is also dangerous to thaw dynamite by putting 
it in hot water or by turning a jet of steam on it, and besides both of 
these make it practically useless for blasting. 

The thawing of dynamite should always be done slowly and 
carefully. This makes it tedious work and the fact that but little 
thawing is often necessary when using Red Cross Dynamite makes 
that brand of great advantage to the farmer. Hercules Dynamite and 
Hercules Gelatin Dynamite usually have to be thawed when the tem- 
perature is lower than 45 F. or 50^ F., but they are used only in 
blasting ditches through wet ground, and in sinking wells, so if this 
work is done in summer and Red Cross Dynamite is used for all other 
blasting, but httle thawing will be necessary. 

18 



ELECTRIC BLASIING 




BLASTING STUMPS ELECTRICALLY 

BLASTING BY ELECTRICITY 

Large boulders and large stumps with spreading roots can often 
be blown out and broken up more thoroughly and with less dynamite 
if it is distributed in several charges in different places under the 
boulder or stump and all of these charges exploded at one time. 
Groups of stumps standing close together can also be blasted best 
in this way. In order to dig a ditch satisfactorily in light, dry soil, 
with dynamite, it is nearly always necessary to also explode a num- 
ber of charges simultaneously. In well sinking and other kinds of 
blasting it is of advantage to explode a number of charges at one 
time, as each tends to help the other. The only way in which several 
charges some distance apart can be exploded at exactly the same 
time is by the electric method of blasting. Electric blasting may, of 
course, if so desired, be applied to all of the work described in this 
Handbook, but it is generally unnecessary except in the blasting just 
described and is more expensive than the use of fuse and blasting 
caps. 

The equipment for blasting by electricity, in addition to dyna- 
mite, consists of 

Electric Fuzes Leading Wire 

Connecting Wire Blasting Machine 

When the charges of dynamite have been primed with electric fuzes 
and tamped as already described, the two electric fuze wires extend 
from the ground over each charge. These two wires should be 
separated and one of them connected to one of the wires of the 

19 



ELECTRIC 



BLASTING 



electric fuze on one side and the other one should be connected in 
the same way to one of the wires on the other side. This should be 
continued until all of the charges are connected in a row with one free 
wire extending from the first charge and another extending from the 
last charge. This is called " connecting in series." If the holes are 
too far apart for the electric fuze wires to reach between them, pieces 
of connecting wire will have to be cut from the spool and, after scrap- 
ing the insulation from the ends, used to connect the electric fuze 
wires in adjoining charges. 

Connections are all made by twisting bare wire ends securely to- 
gether. All wire ends should be scraped with an old knife so that 
they will he free from grease or corrosion when connections are made. 



PROPER WAY TO MAKE CONNECTIONS 

All bare joints or other uncovered places in the wire must be 
kept away from water or damp ground. This can be accomplished 
by putting a stick, block of wood or stone under the wire on each side 
of the bare place. 

The Du Pont Company manufactures an instrument for testing 
blasting circuits, called the Du Pont Galvanometer. This is a very 
ingenious and useful instrument where much blastmg is done by 
electricity. Complete description and instructions for using will be 
sent on request. 




s^ 



DU PONT No. 6 BLASTING CAPS 



DU PONT BLASTING SUPPLIES 

Du Pont Blasting Caps are made in several different grades, but 
nothing weaker than the No. 6 (red label) grade can be depended 
on to develop the full force of dynamite. 

20 



BLASTING SUPPLIES 

Du Pont Blasting Caps are put up 1 00 to the tin box and from 
five to fifty boxes are packed for shipment in a wooden case. Blast- 
ing caps may be exploded by shock, heat or sparks, so must be 
handled carefully and kept away from fire. They are weakened by 
moisture and must be stored in a perfectly dry place and be kept dry 
until they are used. It is dangerous to store them or carry them 
with dynamite. 

Fuse or Safety Fuse, as it is sometimes called, is a fine train of 
powder wrapped in jute and cotton yarn and sometimes in tape. 
Many kinds are made, but either the Crescent or Single Tape grades 
are good enough for most work about the farm. Cotton and hemp 
fuses are not reliable unless the work in which they are used is per- 
fectly dry, and sometimes they are not satisfactory even then. When 
blasting a ditch through wet ground Triple Tape Fuse is recom- 
mended, but must be lighted just as soon as the charge is in place, 
because the best fuse may fail to burn through after it has been under 
water some little time. 

Sometimes, especially in windy weather, it is hard to light fuse 
because the powder in the open end may have become damp or a 
little of it spilled out. When this happens it is well to cut off an inch 
or so in order to be sure that the powder is dry. It is also a help to 
split a half inch of the end with a sharp knife and to spread out the 
two halves. 

Fuse should always be kept dry and should be stored in a cool, 
dry place. If stored in a damp place it becomes damaged after a 
time and may fail to burn through. If stored in a hot, poorly ven- 
tilated place as, for example, close under the roof of a small shed in 
summer time, it may be damaged either by becoming soft and oily 
or by drying out and becoming so hard and brittle that it will break 
when unrolled. Fuse also may become stiff and brittle in cold 
weather and when in this condition should be warmed before being 
unrolled. 

Fuse is put up in a double roll, one 
fitting mside the other, each 50 feet long. 
Each double roll of 1 00 feet is wrapped 
separately. It is packed for shipment in 
wooden cases containing from 500 to 
6000 feet and in barrels containing 8000 
COIL OF FUSE reet. 

21 




BLASTING 



SUPPLIES 




DU PONT CAP CRIMPER 



Du Pont Cap Crimpers 

are necessary wherever 
blasting is done with fuse and 
blasting caps. Without a 
cap crimper it is impossible to 
attach the blasting cap se- 
curely or safely to the fuse. The Du Pont Cap Crimper has besides 
the crimping jaws two shears for cutting fuse and a straight arm to make 
the hole in the primer for the detonator. 

Victor Electric Fuzes are made with double copper wires 4 
feet, 6 feet, 8 feet, and so on up to 30 feet in length. There are 
three grades. No. 6, No. 7 and No. 8, but the No. 6 (red label) 
grade is strong enough for work about the farm. Electric fuzes, 
like blastmg caps, can be exploded by shock or heat, so must be 
handled carefully and kept away from lights and fires. As they can 
also be spoiled by dampness they should be stored m a dry place. 
It is dangerous to store them or carry them with dynamite. They 
are put up in pasteboard cartons or boxes containing 25 or 50 each. 
The cartons are packed for shipment ten to the wooden case. 





-5^"o i 



VICTOR NO. 6 (RED LABEL) ELECTRIC FUZES 

Reliable Blasting Machines are made in two sizes, No. 2 and 
No. 3. The No. 2 size will explode at one time as many as ten, 
and the No. 3 as many as thirty Victor Electric Fuzes connected in 
series. The Reliable Blasting Machine is operated by lifting up the 
handle of the rack bar as high as it will reach, then pushing it down 
as far as it will go with all of the force possible. The rack bar 
should be pushed against the bottom with all of the force that can be 



22 



BLASTING 



SUPPLIES 






5/ '4 

INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR VIEWS OF 3-POST BLASTING MACHINE 

given it and the nearer it comes to the bottom the quicker and harder 
should be the push. When the rack bar strikes the bottom the 
electric fuzes will explode. 

Reliable No. 2 Blasting Machines have two binding posts and 
the No. 3 size also has two posts unless specially ordered with three. 
Three-post blasting machines will explode at one time nearly 50% 
more electric fuzes than two-post blasting machines of the same size. 
The leading wires are connected to the blasting machine by pushing 
the well-scraped bare ends through the small hole in the binding 
posts and screwing the wing nut down firmly on them. When a 
three-post blasting machine is used with three leading wires, the ones 
from the two outside posts are connected to the first and the last elec- 
tric fuzes in the circuit, and the one from the middle post is con- 
nected between the two middle electric fuzes in the circuit. A three- 
post blasting machine may be used with two wires only by connect- 
ing these wires to the middle and either one of the outside binding 
posts — not the two outside ones. Reliable Blasting Machines, if 
properly used, will wear for many years. They must be kept out of 
the wet and mud and must not be thrown about carelessly. If it is 
necessary to use them m wet weather or on wet work, they should be 
carefully wiped off before putting them away. A blasting machine 
should not be put in a hot place to dry out if it has become wet, but 
after being wiped off should be put away in a cool, dry place until 
it has had time to dry out slowly. 



23 



BLASTING 



SUPPLIES 



Blasting machines should be tested occasionally with a Du Pont 
Rheostat to be sure that they are up to standard capacity. A de- 
scription of the Rheostat and instructions for using it will be for- 
warded on application. 



SHOWING CONNECTIONS 
TO 3-POST BLASTING 
NE 





SERIES CONNECTION 

TO 2-POST BLASTING 

MACHINE 




Series connection with blasting machine. The break in the wires is merely to indicate that 
any required length of wire may be used between elect.-ic fuzes and blasting machine. There 
mu-t be no break in the actual circuit. 

Leading Wire is sold in coils of 200 feet, 250 feet, 300 feet 
and 500 feet. There are two kinds, Single and Duplex. In the 
Duplex Wire, the two wires are bound together, which usually 
makes it more convenient to handle. Single Leading Wire weighs 
about two pounds to the hundred feet, and Duplex Leading Wire 
weighs four pounds to the hundred feet. Leading Wire is sold by 
the pound. 

Connecting Wire is sold in 1 -lb. and 2-lb. spools. A 1 -lb. 
spool of No. 20 Connecting Wire holds about 2 1.0 feet. 



24 



THAWING 



KETTLES 





COIL OF LEADING WIRE 



Thawing Kettles are made in two different styles. The Brad- 
ford Thawing Kettle has two separate pails, the one for the dyna- 
mite fitting tightly into the one for the water. It is made in two sizes, 
the No. 1 size holdmg 22 pounds and the No. 2 size 60 pounds of 
dynamite. The Catasauqua Thawing Kettle is made in one piece 
with an outside jacket for the hot water all around the dynamite sec- 
tion. The No. 1 size holds 30 pounds of dynamite and the No. 
2 size 60 pounds. 

The water must never be heated in the Catasauqua Kettle, but 
must be heated m some other vessel, and when not too hot to burn the 
hand, poured into the water compartment provided the dynamite 
compartment is empty. It is dangerous to heat the water in the 
Catasauqua Kettle even when the dynamite section is empty, because 
there may be a little nitro-glycerin in it which has soaked out of the 
dynamite previously thawed. Water may be heated in the outer 
pail of the Bradford Kettle if the inner pail has been removed. The 
dynamite pail must not be put into the water pail unless the water 
is cool enough to put the hand in without burning it. Dynamite 
should not be put into either of the thawing kettles without first 
wiping out the dynamite compartment clean and dry. 




CATASAUQUA THAWING KETTLE 



25 




RADFURD THAWING KETTLE 



ORDERING DYNAMITE 

WHAT TO DO WHEN WANTING DYNAMITE 

In the foregoing, dynamite and blasting supplies have been care- 
fully described, and the way to store and use them explained. Far- 
ther on will be found directions for each kind of blasting and the 
brand and strength of dynamite to use. When blasting is to be done 
refer to the chapter on the kind of work to be done and find the kind 
of dynamite recommended for that work and about how much will 
be required. 

If the dynamite is to be used for blasting stumps, multiply the 
number of stumps to be blasted by the number of cartridges for a 
stump the size they will average and divide the number of cartridges 
by two to get the number of pounds required. Remember that dyna- 
mite is packed in 50-lb. cases, each containing from 90 to 100 V/4 x 
8-inch cartridges, and order accordingly. 

Write the nearest dealer exactly the number of cases you want, 
giving him the brand and the strength and do not accept anything else, 
for there is nothing more trying and unsatisfactory than to attempt to 
blast with dynamite which is unsuitable for the work you are doing. 

If there is no dealer in your locality, or if the ones there do not 
keep the exact brand and strength that you want, a letter explaining 
this should be written to our nearest branch office, as shown on the back 
cover of this Handbook, and they will either ship you what you need 
or tell you where to get it. 

Dynamite and detonators should not be hauled together from 
the dealer's or the railroad station. The detonators do not weigh 
much and can be brought along on some other trip. If blasting caps 
are purchased from a dealer in the tin boxes separate from the wooden 
shipping case it is a good plan to put these boxes in a basket or 
wooden box with a horse blanket, coat, hay or anything else that 
would keep them from being roughly jarred and shaken on the way 
home. 

When the dynamite arrives lock it up securely in some dry, out of 
the way shed or smoke house, which will not be likely to be set on fire 

26 



ORDERING DYNAMITE 

or shot into. Fuse, wire, thawing kettles and blasting machine may be 
stored in the same shed with the dynamite, but blastmg caps and elec- 
tric tuzes should be put in some other dry place under lock and key. 
When ready to use the dynamite open the box or case with a 
hard wood wedge and a mallet and take to the work in a dry box or 
pail the number of cartridges required immediately. Never take more 
than the day's supply even in warm weather, and in cold weather 
take only what can be kept thawed until it is to be used, unless there 
are arrangements for thawing it where the blasting is being done. 
Let somebody else carry the tamping stick, fuse and detonators to 
the work. As soon as holes are ready for the dynamite — and when 
possible the holes should all be ready before the dynamite is brought 
to the work — the priming, charging, tamping and firing, as already 
described, should be carried on as rapidly as possible without becom- 
ing careless. A very little practice will put you in the way of doing 
blasting quickly, systematically and economically, and you will won- 
der how you ever got along without dynamite. 

TOOLS USED IN AGRICULTURAL BLASTING 

Tools necessary in connection with farm blasting are to be found 
on almost every farm or can be easily made there or at the nearest 
blacksmith shop. The holes for blasting stumps, boulders, trees, sub- 
soil for post holes, road grading, trenches, etc., can all be made with a 
crowbar having a point at one end and a flat chisel edge at the other. 
The wooden tamping stick can be made in a half hour by dressing 
down a hard wood sapling, or, if the holes are shallow, an old broom- 
stick will do. A long handle shovel and a grub hoe or mattock are 
always serviceable when blasting stumps and boulders. Although a 
crowbar is very satisfactory for making a moderate number of holes, 
it will usually be found of advantage, if the work is extensive, to 
secure augers or bars especially made for the purpose. Sometimes a 
steel rod |/^ inch in diameter and 5 feet long with a sharp slender 
point at one end and a ring on the other is serviceable for probing 
under a stump to find out the size and position of the main roots. 

27 



TOOLS 



REQUIRED 



When draining swamps by shattering the impervious subsoil 
under them it is sometimes necessary to make the holes for the dyna- 
mite much deeper than can be done with a crowbar. For this work 
rod or pipe extensions for the augers are used. In subsoiling, a bar 
a little heavier and shorter than a crowbar is also used. This subsoil 
bar can be removed when it becomes fast by means of a trace chain 
and a lever. Augers specially made for agricultural work can be 
obtained from Job T. Pugh, 31st and Ludlow Sts., Phila., Penn. 
We will advise interested parties where the other tools may be 
purchased. 



■^^^^€^^ 



FUGH WOOD AUGER 




EXTENSION ROD 



mm^ 



fHam 



INTERMEDIATE EXTENSION ROD 



PUGH EARTH AUGER 



SUBSOIL BAR 



28 



CLAY TAMPING 




SPREADING ROOT CHARGE 




TAP ROOT CHARGE 



29 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR AGRICULTURAL 
BLASTING 



In the following pages are given general instructions as to how 
to do different kinds of blasting about the farm. It must be remem- 
bered that the exact quantity of dynamite to use and the very best 
spot to locate the charge must depend on local conditions, that 
is, the way the stump's roots lie and the kmd of ground under them, 
the position and grain of the boulder, the thickness and quality of 
the subsoil or hardpan, etc. It can be easily understood, there- 
fore, that the directions given are only general and that it may be 
found of advantage, after a few trials, to modify or change them a 
little. If they are carefully followed in a general way it will be found 
easy and profitable to use dynamite in the work for which it is recom- 
mended, but a little experience will probably enable the user to do 
the work even more quickly and at less expense than when first he 
attempts it. 

BLASTING STUMPS 

It is usually necessary in blasting stumps to place the charge 
under the center of the stump, so that the part offering the greatest 
resistance will be hit first and hardest. Generally this spot will be 
directly under the middle of the stump, and it is sometimes neces- 
sary to bore into the tap root. Where a very big stump is rotten 
at the middle, but has several large branches, it is better to increase 
the charge a little and locate it deeper in the ground or to place a 
small charge under each of the large roots and explode them all 
together with a blasting machine. 

In order to keep the dynamite from splitting the stump, and 
wasting a part of the force which should be used in lifting it out, 
some blasters wind a stout chain around the stump several times. 

With some large stumps it is better to spread out the charge 
under them. This is done by boring holes from different sides so 
that they will meet under the middle of the stump and charging each 
hole with two or more cartridges. In this case it is necessary to prime 
only one cartridge, but that should be loaded first and pushed back 

30 



nm^ ^ CLAY TAMPING 
FUSI 




ROTTEN STUMP CHARGE 




BIGTREE TUNNEL CHARGE 



31 



BLASTING OUT STUMPS 



to the place where all of the holes come together, then the next car- 
tridge loaded in each hole must touch the primer. It is not easy to 
bore the holes and charge properly under this system, and it should 
only be used after some experience and when the condition of the 
ground and stump is such that the work cannot be satisfactorily done 
in any other way. 

The best general instructions that can be given are: observe 
carefully the way the stump stands, the location and size of the roots, 
the nature of the soil and the size of the stump. The probing spear 
described on page 28 is often of great service in determining just 
what kind of roots a stump has. 

The kind of wood is important, principally in its bearing on the 
probable size and position of the roots. Some kinds of trees, such as 
Southern Yellow Pine, Swamp Cypress and the Pines, Firs, Cedars, 
Redwoods and Bigtrees of the Pacific Slope grow principally in the 
same kind of soil and generally speaking have similar root growth. 
With trees of this kind it is possible to give relatively accurate instruc- 
tions as to the quantity of explosives necessary to blast stumps of a 
given size, but for the stumps of those trees which grow on either clay 
or on light sandy soil, which may be found in swampy country, or on 
high, dry ground and which develop entirely different root systems, 
there is no way of closely estimating the charge without examining 
each particular stump. 

Stumps of Oak, Pine, Chestnut, Walnut, Hickory, Gum, Poplar, 
etc., in various parts of the country will be found with entirely differ- 
ent root systems and standing in different soil according to the 
locality, and a charge of dynamite which would be just large enough 
to blast out one of them of any given size in one place might be very 
much more than necessary for a stump of the same size and same kind 
of wood in some other place. 

When starting in to blast stumps the size of the charge may be 
regulated according to the following table until experience shows 
what changes should be made. The table is based on sound stumps 
and average conditions of roots and soil. If the stumps are of a 
variety that come out of the ground easily and the soil is of heavy 
clay, the charges for each diameter can be considerably reduced. If, 
on the other hand, the stumps have unusually strong root develop- 
ment, or if the soil is very light and sandy, more dynamite may be 
required. Sometimes, under favorable conditions, it is more eco- 

, 32 



BLASTING OUT STUMPS 

nomical to use Red Cross 25% Extra Dynamite, or again in very 
light soil Red Cross 40% Extra Dynamite will be best. 



Diameter of 
Stumps in inches 


12 


18 


24 


30 


36 


42 


48 


54 1 60 


66 


72 


Approximate No. of 1 \i" 
X 8" cartridges Red Cross 
40% Extra Dynamite 


\% 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


8 


10 


12 


14 


16 



Stumps standing in light, open soil can be blasted better when 
the ground is wet, because then it resists better the force of the dyna- 
mite. Stumps in swamps or on swampy ground should, however, 
be blasted in dry weather. 

The proper way to prepare the charge and to place the dyna- 
mite under the stumps is described on pages 11 to 16. 

As already stated Red Cross Dynamite cartridges 11/4x8 
inches weigh about a half pound each, so the approximate cost of 
blasting stumps of different sizes can be easily calculated from the 
above table when you have the price per pound. Prices for the 
different strengths will be given you by your dealer or by the nearest 
Du Pont office. 

The stumps of some kinds of trees require special treatment for 
best results, and instructions in regard to these follow : 

Southern Yellow Pine Stumps 

Southern Pines growing on deep, open soil have a very strong 
tap root, but those growing in thin, open soil over a hard subsoil 
either have no tap root at all or only a small one. Southern Yellow 
Pine stumps without tap roots are blasted in the same way as other 
stumps with lateral or spreading roots. When blasting those with 
tap roots the dynamite should be in the tap root directly under the 
center of the stump. The tap root is exposed by digging an opening 
one or two feet deep under the smooth side of the stump. A two- 
inch auger hole is then bored about three-quarters of the way through 
the tap root on an angle of 35 to 45 degrees. If the hole is bored 
entirely through the tap root a good deal of the force of the dynamite 
when it explodes is wasted in the soft ground beyond the tap root. 



BLASTING OUT STUMPS 

The charge should be from one to six cartridges, depending on 
the size of the stump, of Red Cross 40% Extra Dynamite. The ex- 
plosion of the charge will cut off the tap root twenty-four to thirty- 
six inches below the surface and will turn out the stump in pieces. 
The trouble of boring into the tap root when blasting these stumps 
can be avoided by pressing the charge of dynamite firmly against the 
side of the tap root and, after tamping it thoroughly, exploding it. 
Considerably more dynamite is required, however, to blast in this 
way. The opening down along the tap root can be dug with a 
shovel or bored with a three-inch post-hole auger. See pages 1 1 to 
1 6, and 29 for proper methods of priming, charging, tamping and 
firing. 

Western Fir, Pine and Cedar Stumps 

In the States of Washington, Oregon and California, where the 
rainfall is large and the ground in the forests is always damp, many 
of the trees grow to great size — some being eight or ten feet in 
diameter. The roots of these trees usually spread out near the sur- 
face and do not grow deep into the ground, as might be expected, tap 
roots being extremely rare. The object when blasting these stumps 
is not to split them, but to bring them out entire at one blast, with all 
of the roots possible, because if the charge of explosives is so gauged 
and located as to split the stump, it generally fails to bring out all of 
the pieces. As the principal object is to get out as much of the 
stump as possible at a minimum cost, it is better to blast it out first 
and then it can be easily split afterwards, by means of a small 
quantity of dynamite exploded in auger holes. 

The common rule in blasting these stumps is to use one and 
one-half pounds of Hercules Powder-Stumping L. F. per foot of 
diameter, with stumps up to four feet, when the subsoil is clay. 
For larger sizes two to two and one-half pounds for each foot in 
diameter should be used. Stumps in gravelly or loose ground require 
one pound more for each foot in diameter. 

The charge of explosives is best placed when there is sixteen 
to twenty-four inches of earth between it and the bottom of the 
stump. This results in the force of the explosion radiating to all 
sides, lifting the stump clear of the ground, and bringing with it the 
greatest length of roots. If the charge is placed too close to the 
stump, the effect is to split it, leaving the roots to be dug out at extra 
labor and expense. 

34 




o 5 



V) O 

n) re 



5 » 



J: o 

•D ■1-' 



£.= 



» 5 



"- £ 



BLASTING OUT STUMPS 

When these stumps are large the bottom of the bore hole is 
" sprung " or chambered until it is so large that the increased charge 
required can be concentrated under the center of the stump. The 
chambering is done by exploding, without tamping, first a half car- 
tridge, then several successive charges of from one to five cartridges 
each, in the bottom of the bore hole. When the hole is large enough 
it is given time to cool off and is then charged with the necessary 
quantity of Hercules Powder-Stumping L. F. to bring out the stump. 
See pages I 1-16, and 31 for proper methods of priming, charging, 
tamping and firing. 

Redwood and Bigtree Stumps 

The best explosive for these stumps is Hercules Powder-Stump- 
ing L. F. or Judson Powder R. R. P. The latter is comparatively 
slow-acting and has more of a lifting and heaving than a shattering 
effect. It is granular and is packed in twelve and one-half pound 
paper bags which are enclosed in wooden cases similar to those in 
which regular dynamite is packed. 

The way to estimate the quantity of Judson Powder R. R. P. 
necessary to blast out stumps larger than eight feet in diameter, is to 
square the largest diameter in feet, the result being approximately the 
number of pounds required. For example, if a stump is eight feet in 
diameter the charge of Judson Powder R. R. P. should be about the 
square of eight, or sixty-four pounds. Stumps less than eight feet in 
diameter require a little greater charge for their size than do the 
larger stumps, and the rule with them is to use as many pounds of 
Judson Powder R. R. P. as eight times the largest diameter in feet. 
On this basis a stump six feet in diameter would need about forty- 
eight pounds of powder. However, the successful blasting of these 
large stumps depends greatly on the judgment of the blaster, and 
these rules can only be considered as a general guide. This can 
easily be understood when it is remembered that, owing to difference 
in soil or some peculiarity in the growth of the tree, it sometimes re- 
quires the same quantity of explosives to properly bring out a stump 
six feet in diameter as it does another one eight feet in diameter. 

In blasting these stumps a trench is dug large enough to permit 
placing the entire charge of explosives directly underneath the center 
of the stump. A little dynamite blasted in holes punched with a 
crowbar will prove of great assistance in digging this trench. 

36 




5 o 



■5 E 



jj ra 



E 5 






E o 



o 5 



BLASTING OUT STUMPS 



If the ground is wet, the charge should be placed in waterproof 
bags, as Judson Powder R. R. P. is not waterproof and is quickly 
damaged by water. 

Judson Powder R. R. P. can be properly exploded only with 
a primer of 40 /f (or stronger) dynamite. The sizes of the primers 
required for different charges of Judson Powder R. R. P. are as 
follows: 

Charge of Judson Powder Primer of 40 '', Dynamite 

Pounds Number of 1 '4 " x 8" Cartridges 

10 1 

20 2 

50 4 

300 25 

When several cartridges are used as a primer, they should be 
tied in a compact bundle with a primed cartridge in the center. If 
blasting cap and fuse are used in the priming cartridge, care should 
be taken in placing the primer to prevent any contact between the 
fuse and the Judson Powder R. R. P., as the latter is very inflam- 
mable. The charge should be firmly tamped. 

Avoid being on the same side of the stump as the trench when 
the blast is fired, as fragments, etc., are thrown with more violence 
and to greater distances on that side. 

The illustration on page 35 shows two large redwood stumps 
which had practically one root below the surface, the two trees 
having stood so close to each other that they grew together in 
the ground. The circumference of the stump just above the surface 
of the ground was seventy-five feet. This stump was completely 
removed, as shown on pages 37 and 39, with ninety-three pounds 
of Hercules Powder-Stumping L. F. Six trenches were dug under 
the stump at different points, five of these being loaded each with 
twenty-five 1 Yl x 8-inch cartridges of this explosive, and the sixth 
with thirty 1 '/2 x 8-inch cartridges. These charges were then con- 
nected up electrically and the trenches were thoroughly and com- 
pactly tamped above the dynamite to the surface of the ground. 
The six charges were then fired simultaneously with a blasting ma- 
chine. The illustration on page 35 shows the blasting machine 
used and the cartridges of Hercules Powder-Stumping L. F. on the 
ground preparatory to charging the trenches. 

38 




I i 



58 

I. o 
o > 

> >> 

h £ 



it E 



BLASTING OUT STUMPS 

This stump had stood from twenty-five to thirty years, but was 
perfectly solid. It made about thirty-five cords of wood after it was 
blasted. See pages 11-16 and 31 for proper methods of priming, 
charging, tamping and firing. 

Cypress Stumps 

Cypress stumps are found, as a rule, in swamps where the soil 
is a soggy muck often covered with water. These stumps have no 
tap root, but have large " spreaders " reaching out in all directions 
to such an extent that they are interwoven with those of neighboring 
stumps, forming a tangle of roots that never rot. Strong and quick 
dynamite gives the best results when blasting them. The common 
practice is to place 1 '/4 x 8-inch cartridges under each of the princi- 
pal spreaders, and fire all simultaneously by means of a blasting 
machine. The cypress wood, being extremely soft, splits easily, and 
the dynamite shatters and releases the entangled roots. 

Hercules 60% Dynamite is recommended for blasting cypress 
stumps. As the charges under the different roots should be ex- 
ploded together for best results, electric fuzes and a blasting machine 
should be used. Many of the cypress swamps in the south have 
been drained by land reclaiming operations. When the stumps 
are blasted after the swamps are drained the explosive best suited for 
the work is Red Cross 40% Extra Dynamite. See pages 11 to 1 6 for 
proper methods of priming, charging, tamping and firing. 

Second-Growth Stumps 

There is often directly under a second-growth stump the de- 
cayed remains of the original stump; this is soft, and the force of 
the explosive when placed on it seems to merely scatter this dead 
wood and has no marked effect upon the stump above. To overcome 
this difficulty, it is a good plan to dig under the stump and place a 
good-sized flat stone between the roots, leaving only room on top of 
the stone for the dynamite. Damp clay should then be firmly packed 
around the dynamite. This gives sufficient resistance to the explosive 
to enable it to lift out the stump. Red Cross 40% Extra Dynamite 
should be used. See pages 11 to 1 6 for proper methods of priming, 
charging, tamping and firing. 

FELLING TREES 

Occasionally when clearing land of growing timber, it is of ad- 
vantage to blast out the entire tree and saw off the root afterwards. 

40 



SPLITTING STUMPS AND LOGS 



The process here is exactly the same as in stump blasting, but a little 
more dynamite is required to bring out the tree, roots and all, than to 
blast the stump after the tree has been cut. The blast lifts the tree 
straight up a foot or two; then it falls, generally with the wind. See 
pages 1 1 to 1 5 for proper methods of priming, charging, tamping and 
firing. 

SPLITTING STUMPS AND LOGS 

When stumps, particularly large ones, are blasted out whole or 
nearly so, it is usually necessary to split them up so that they can be 
conveniently handled or burned. This can be readily accomplished 
with dynamite; only a small quantity of explosives being required if 
the charge is properly tamped in auger holes bored part way through 
the stump. 

In the South the pine stumps are very large producers of tur- 
pentine and by-products. Nothing is so effective as dynamite for 
breaking up a stump for this purpose. Charges of a few inches of 
Red Cross 407^ Extra Dynamite, exploded simultaneously in several 
auger holes bored in the stump, will shatter it up into exactly the size 
required. 

When logs are split up to be burned quickly, the same method 
is used as when splitting stumps; but if they are to be split for fence 
rails, cord-wood, charcoal, or other purposes where comparatively 
even and regular sections are required, Du Pont Blasting Powder 
should be used. 

This explosive is so much slower m action than dynamite that 
a series of properly gauged and properly placed charges will split a log 
along the gram, just as evenly as if a number of wedges were used. 

This method of splitting logs is so much quicker, cheaper and 
easier than any other, that those who have once become proficient at it 
never give it up. Auger holes are bored along the line of the grain, 
about one-quarter to one-half of the way through the log, the depth of 
the holes and the distance between them depending on the kind of 
wood, the grain, and the diameter of the log. A few ounces of FF 
Blasting Powder are put into the bottom of each hole, care being first 
taken to see that the hole is dry, then wooden plugs are driven firmly 
into the tops of the holes to tamp or confine the charge. 

In some kinds of wood it is best to leave a considerable air space 
between the bottom of the plug and the powder. The plugs must 
have a groove in the side large enough to admit the electric squib 

42 



SPLITTING STUMPS AND LOGS 

wires or the fuse. As blasting powder is exploded by a spark or 
flame it is not necessary to use a detonator with it. Electric squibs 
are similar in appearance to electric fuzes, except that they have 
a paper capsule instead of a copper cap. They do not explode 
when the electric current passes through them, but ignite the blasting 
powder by a flash. If electric squibs and a blasting machine are used 
for exploding the charges, they can all be fired simultaneously. This 
usually is the best and cheapest way, as a little less powder is required 
than when the charges are exploded separately with fuse. When 
using electric squibs, it is only necessary to have the groove or channel 
in the sides of the wooden plugs large enough for the two small wires 
to run through them, if the cap of the electric squib is put in place 
before the plug is driven in. When driving the plug care must be 
taken that the wires are kept free, and that the insulation on them is 
not damaged. If it is not convenient to provide wooden plugs in this 
work, damp clay tamping may be used on top of a wad of newspaper. 
A log two feet in diameter, and four or five feet long, can usually be 
split in two with one two-ounce charge of FF Blasting Powder. 
Longer logs require two or more holes, and logs of greater diameter 
require heavier charges. The holes should be from one and one-eighth 
to two inches in diameter. 

Logs may all be split into fairly regular sections with dynamite 
if care is taken not to use too much. To split a solid oak log ten feet 
long and four feet in diameter, tw o or two and a half P/^ x 8 inch 
cartridges of Red Cross 40% Extra Dynamite are exploded in a 
hole drilled halfway through the log, midway between the ends. This 
will sometimes split the log in quarters if the charge is properly con- 
fined with tamping. Only about half as much dynamite is required 
to split a poplar log of this size. A two-foot pine log twenty feet 
long can be split in halves with a single P/^ x 8 inch cartridge or 
less of Red Cross 40' r Extra Dynamite exploded as described above. 

BOULDER BLASTING 

There are three ways in which boulders can be blasted. These 
are known as " Mudcapping," " Snakeholing " and " Blockholing." 
" Mudcapping " and " Snakeholing " are the easier and quicker 
methods, but require more dynamite. It is almost impossible to 
shatter large round boulders of hard rock by either of these methods, 
without using an excessive quantity of explosives. See pages 1 1 to 1 6 
for proper methods of priming, charging, tamping and firing. 

44 




THE MUDCAP IN POSITION 




THE EFFECT OF THE BLAST 



BREAKING UP BOULDERS 



MUDCAPPING 

When blasting boulders by mudcapping them (also called 
" doby shooting " or " blistering ") the charge of dynamite is packed 
closely against the surface on the top or side of the boulder, covered 
with mud and exploded. The charge should be placed on the spot 
which would be struck with a sledge if the boulder were small enough 
to be broken in that way and should be packed in a solid mass by 
slitting the paper cartridge shells, but not spreading them over the sur- 
face of the boulder any more than absolutely necessary. A blasting 
cap crimped onto fuse should be placed in the middle of the charge, 
and the whole covered with six inches of damp clay or sand. This 
should be pressed firmly over the mass of dynamite, care being taken 
not to cover the outer end of the fuse. If the boulder is deeply im- 
bedded in the ground, it is best, before blasting, to dig away or 
loosen some of the earth surrounding it. 

If the boulder is cracked or seamy, the charge should be placed 
in some depression and covered with a quantity of clay or sand. This 
will furnish more resistance and secure greater force from the ex- 
plosives. 

The quantity and strength of dynamite required naturally de- 
pend on the size and shape of the boulder. The " grain " and 
kind of rock are also important points. Hercules 60% Dynamite 
is best for mudcapping boulders. The following table gives approxi- 
mately the number of P/4 x 8-inch cartridges to mudcap boulders 
of different sizes, so that they will be broken into pieces small enough 
for one man to handle, provided the boulders are mostly above the 
surface of the ground. 



WEIGHT OF BOULDER 



APPROXIMATE NUMBER OF 
I '+"x 8" CARTRIDGES 



100 lbs. to 500 lbs 
1000 lbs. 
2000 lbs. 
3000 lbs. 
4000 lbs. 
5000 lbs. 
7500 lbs. 
10000 lbs. 



Yz to XY 
2 
3 

4 

6 
8 



46 



BREAKING UP BOULDERS 



If boulders are largely buried in the ground they may be 
broken by doubling or trebling the above charges, but it is better 
under these conditions to lift the boulder out of the ground by 
snakeholing and then break it in pieces by mudcapping. 

SNAKEHOLING 

In this method of breaking boulders the dynamite is placed in 
holes underneath them just as in stump blasting. The hole is made 
with a crowbar or dirt auger in such a direction that the charge of 
dynamite will be against the center of the lower side of the boulder. 
If the boulder is hollow or flat underneath, the explosion of the charge 
will break it in pieces and throw it out of its bed. If the lower side 
is round or bulging the boulder will be heaved out, but will not be so 
well broken. When this occurs the large pieces may be broken by 
mudcapping. Care should be taken when the charge is placed to 
leave no means by which the force of the dynamite may escape. If 
it has not been thoroughly tamped, or if it is too near the surface 
of the ground and not in the proper position beneath the boulder, 
the dynamite may blow the dirt out and leave the boulder untouched. 

Hercules 60% Dynamite should be used when breaking up 
boulders in this way. Only from one-half to two-thirds the quantity 
that would be required to mudcap the same boulder is needed, pro- 
vided it has a hollow or flat side underneath. The results are better 
in damp, heavy soil than in light or sandy soil. 

BLOCKHOLING 

This is the most economical way to use dynamite in breaking 
up boulders, although it takes some time and labor to drill the one or 
more necessary holes in the boulder. The holes in large boulders 
should be an inch or more in diameter, while three-quarters or seven- 
eighths of an inch will answer for the smaller ones. 

A boulder weighing from eight to ten tons can be well broken 
by drilling a one-inch hole in it near the center from eighteen to 
twenty-four inches deep, as the shape and grain of the rock may de- 
mand, and exploding in the hole two or three 1 Ya x 8-inch car- 
tridges of Hercules 60% Dynamite. As it is best to have the dyna- 
mite well down in the hole so that as much tamping as possible can 
be packed above it, the dynamite should be poured out of the shells 
and packed down into the hole with a stick. When it is all in place 

47 



DITCHING WITH DYNAMITE 

a hole is made in it with a sharp stick and the blasting cap, crimped 
to the necessary length of fuse, is pushed down into this hole and held 
in position by carefully packing the clay tamping about the fuse. 

To break up a boulder weighing approximately a ton a one-inch 
hole, eight inches deep, charged with from two-thirds to one cartridge 
of the same size and grade of dynamite, is required. Smaller boulders 
require holes from four to six inches in depth, which, if necessary, can 
be filled full of dynamite, and no tamping used. 

DITCHING 

When properly used dynamite will excavate ditches entirely, 
cleaning them out to grade, giving the sides the correct slope and 
spreading the earth excavated over the land some distance away. 
In the same way much valuable land can be saved by blasting straight 
channels to straighten and shorten the course of creeks and streams. 
It is not necessary in this work to blast a large ditch or channel, for 
if the current is once started through a small one it will soon wash 
it out to the proper size. 

The most satisfactory place to use dynamite for ditching is in 
wet heavy soil, even though it should be covered with several mches 
of water, and the best time to do this work is in warm weather. 
Ditches can, however, be dug economically and satisfactorily through 
dry ground. 

To blast a ditch through swampy ground punch a row of holes 
with a bar an inch and a half in diameter down to within four inches 
of the grade of the ditch, spacing them from eighteen to twenty-four 
inches apart, and in such a position that the bottoms of the holes will 
follow the center line of the ditch. Some authorities put the holes 
straight down while others believe it best to have them on an angle of 
45 to 70 degrees, all pointing toward the same side of the ditch. It 
is probable that the latter plan usually cleans out the ditch better. It 
also throws most of the earth in the direction that the holes are 
pointed. When the holes have been punched for four or five hundred 
feet, or for the entire ditch if it is shorter than that, from one-half to 
one I Y4 X 8-inch cartridge of Hercules 60% Dynamite should be 
dropped into each hole and pushed firmly to the bottom with a 
wooden stick. The charging of the holes should be started at the 
ends of the ditch and finished at the middle. The three last holes 

48 




1. BORING THE HOLES FOR A DITCH 




2. THE BLAST 



DITCHING WITH DYNAMITE 



should be charged with two cartridges each and the last cartridge 
loaded in the middle hole should be primed with a blasting cap, 
carefully crimped to the proper length of waterproof fuse. No tamp- 
ing is required. Just as soon as the primer is in position everybody 
should be warned off the ditch and the fuse lighted, the blaster, of 
course, retiring to a safe distance. The charge m the middle hole 
explodes those in the holes on either side and the effect of these two 
is carried to the next ones and so on almost instantaneously to the 
opposite ends at the ditch. In this way ditches can be dug up to 
seven feet wide at the top, three and a half feet wide at the bottom 
and four feet deep, the width and depth depending on the depth and 
distance apart of the holes, whether each charge consists of one-half, 
three-quarters or one cartridge and the kind of soil and how wet it is. 
Cold weather also checks the action of the dynamite and it is neces- 
sary to use larger charges and put the holes closer together then than 
in warm weather. It is also necessary to use heavier charges and put 
them closer together when the ground is only moderately wet and 
heavy. 

For ditches with a width at the top of from eight to fourteen 
feet, two rows of holes are necessary, all of the holes in both rows 
being pointed at an angle of 45 to 70 degrees toward the same side 
of the ditch. The holes should be the same distance apart in the 
rows, the same depth and charged with the same quantity and kind 
of dynamite as for the narrower ditches. The rows should be spaced 
as follows: 



TOP WIDTH OF DITCH 



DISTANCE BETWEEN TWO 
ROWS OF HOLES 



8 ft. 


30 In. 


10 ft. 


36 in. 


12 ft. 


42 in. 


14 ft. 


48 in. 



Ditches from sixteen to twenty feet wide require three rows of 
holes with three to four feet between the rows and the holes the same 
distance apart in the rows as with the narrow ditches. In these wide 

50 




3. A MOMENT AFTER THE BLAST 




4. THE COMPLETED DITCH 



DITCHING WITH DYNAMITE 



ditches it is generally necessary to load one and a half or two car- 
tridges in each hole in the outside rows and two or three cartridges 
in each hole in the middle row. When there are two or three rows 
more than two feet apart the charges in the middle hole of each row 
should be primed with an electric fuze and exploded together with a 
blasting machine or else an extra hole should be put down midway 
between the middle holes of each row so that the effect of the ex- 
plosion of the charge with the primer cartridge would not have to 
carry more than two feet. 

When there are two or three rows of holes they are sometimes 
alternated or staggered as follows : 



o 






o< S £ 



O 



S = E 

' 0< -c nj a 

o o 



o 



™°x 



The entire cost, including labor and dynamite, of ditches from 
three to four feet deep, three feet wide at the bottom and five to 
seven feet wide at the top, is two cents to four cents per lineal foot 
or an average of about six and two-thirds cents per cubic yard ex- 
cavated. Ditches requiring two or three rows of holes and those 
from four to six feet deep will cost one-half more to twice as much 
per cubic yard as the narrower and shallower ones. 

Ditches through dry and light soil cost more than those in wet, 
heavy ground, but even then can often be dug cheaper with dyna- 
mite than in any other way. The effect of the explosion of one or 
two cartridges of dynamite cannot be depended on to carry for any 
material distance through dry ground and it is accordingly necessary 
in this work to prime each charge with an electric fuze so that as 
many as possible may be exploded together. When each charge is 
to be primed they can be spaced farther apart, the distance being 
regulated by the amount of ditch each cartridge will excavate. This 
is usually about two and a half feet and the holes are accordingly 
spaced that far apart in the rows. When more than one row of holes 
is necessary the distance between the rows should be the same as 

52 



DITCHING WITH DYNAMITE 

when the work is in wet ground. In dry ground slower and weaker 
dynamite does the best work and for this ditching Red Cross 25% 
Extra Dynamite should be used. 

If the line of the ditch is covered with a thick turf, sod or 
matted growth of any kind, the dynamite will do better work if this is 
first turned up with a plow for the full width and length of the ditch. 

In most cases it will be found that the costs given above are 
rather higher than the average and that they can be materially re- 
duced after some practice and experience. See pages II to 1 5 for 
proper methods of priming, charging, tamping and firing. 

DRAINING SWAMPS AND PONDS 

Sw^amps and ponds, except where they are close to rivers, lakes 
or the ocean, are caused by spring or surface water collecting on low- 
ground without a lower outlet and which is underlaid by clay or 
other subsoil that the water cannot sink through. When it is not 
practicable to drain these swamps by ditching they can often be per- 
manently dried up by shattering the impervious subsoil in the lowest 
places with dynamite. It is generally best to blast in three or four 
places and sometimes a row of holes spaced twenty to thirty feet 
apart, across the pond or swamp where the water is deepest, will 
give the best results. However, the number of holes necessary de- 
pends on the area to be drained and the thickness of the impervious 
soil or clay underneath. This is sometimes many feet in depth, but 
is usually from two or three feet to thirty or forty feet. To satis- 
factorily drain away the water above it is necessary to break this 
subsoil entirely through and to do this the holes for the dynamite 
should be drilled almost through it — say wnthin two feet of the bottom 
— if gravel, sand or other open earth lies below the clay. In order 
to do this, a test hole to determine the exact thickness of the clay is 
of course necessary. The clay will not be properly shattered if the 
charge of dynamite is placed in the open ground below it as the 
explosion of the dynamite w^ould then be more likely to make a large 
chamber or cavity in the sand or gravel than to shatter the clay above. 

If the clay is underlaid by rock the holes should be bored down 
to the rock so that the force of the exploding dynamite will open 
fissures between the clay and rock or in the rock itself. 

The holes are drilled with a two-inch dirt auger with pipe or 
rod extensions two or three feet long. If the place where the holes are 

53 



DRAINING SWAMPS AND PONDS 

to be put down is covered with water too deep to work in, the bor- 
ing should be done from a raft anchored in the proper position. It is 
much easier to operate the auger through a hole in the middle of the 
raft than over the side. When the impervious subsoil is thick, one 
extension after another should be added to the auger until the hole 
has reached the proper depth. Then the auger is withdrawn and a 
piece of two-inch pipe long enough to extend above the surface of 
the water is forced five or six inches into the top of the hole. Through 
this the dynamite cartridges are dropped, one or two at a time, and 
then pushed to the bottom of the hole with a wooden loading stick. 
A good firm push will hold each cartridge in position. The cartridge 
primed with the Victor Waterproof Electric Fuze is loaded next to 
the last, one cartridge being put on top of it to hold the primer in 
place, as it is not advisable to give the cartridge containing the de- 
tonator too hard a push with the loading stick. When the hole has 
been charged the loading pipe is withdrawn and slipped over the ends 
of the electric fuze wires, the leading wires are connected on to the 
electric fuze wires, the joints being carefully protected with insulating 
tape and the raft is poled to the shore or a safe distance away from the 
hole while the leading wire is carefully paid out. The outer ends of 
the leading wires are then attached to the blasting machine, the opera- 
tion of which explodes the charge. It is unnecessary to do any tamp- 
ing in this work if the holes are filled with water. The cartridges 
should not be slit. The best explosive to use is Red Cross Extra 
40% Dynamite. The following table gives the approximate charge 
for holes of different depths : 



DEPTH OF HOLE 


APPROXIMATE NUMBER OF 
l;4"x8' CARTRIDGES 


5 ft. 


4 


10 ft. 


7 


15 ft. 


12 


20 ft. 


17 


30 ft. 


25 


40 ft. 


35 



Where the ground is swampy or ponds form in the wet season 
only and dry up later in the year, the blasting should be done in the 
dry season when a raft will not be required. This blasting should be 

54 



ROAD WORK WITH DYNAMITE 

done just as described above except that it is necessary to tamp the 
charge thoroughly unless the bore hole fills up with water. In this 
work it is sometimes of advantage to make a chamber in the bottom 
of the hole by first exploding a single cartridge in the bottom. This 
makes it possible to get more of the main charge in to the bottom and 
break the rock or subsoil better. The explosion of the single cartridge 
may close the hole a little, but it can easily be opened again with the 
auger or an iron rod. The main charge must never be loaded im- 
mediately after chambering, but a half hour or more allowed for the 
bottom of the bore hole to cool off. This plan of chambering the 
bottom may also be followed when water fills the bore holes. 

See pages II to 1 5 for proper methods of priming, charging, 
tamping and firing. 

ROAD BUILDING 

Road grading and ditching always take more or less digging, 
but by using dynamite to loosen up the hard ground or shale, and to 
blast out the rock they can be built quickly and at comparatively 
little expense. 

To blast cuts not more than five feet deep through hard earth 
or shale a bar should be driven down to within six inches of grade 
and one or two 1 Ya x 8-inch cartridges of Red Cross 40% Extra 
Dynamite be exploded in the hole thus made. Be sure to first tamp 
the charge properly. Holes should be spaced five to eight feet 
apart. In this way the material to be removed is not only broken up 
so that it can be shoveled very easily, but a good portion of it is 
spread over the surrounding land and does not have to be handled. 

Roads can be ditched with but little shoveling, by exploding 
about half a cartridge of the same dynamite in holes along the sides 
a foot deep and two to three feet apart. 

If it is necessary to cut through rock, the holes should be drilled 
closer together and charged heavier. See pages 1 1 to 1 5 for proper 
methods of priming, charging, tamping and firing. 

EXCAVATING CELLARS AND TRENCHES 
FOR FOUNDATIONS 

If the work is in rock, drill holes four feet deep and two and a 
half to three feet apart. Charge with one or one and a half 1 1/4 x 
8-inch cartridges of Red Cross 40% Extra Dynamite. As hand drills 
are not often larger than one inch in diameter it will be necessary to 

56 



EXCAVATING WITH DYNAMITE 

pour the dynamite out of the shells and pack it in the bottoms of the 
holes with a wooden stick exactly as when blockholing a boulder as 
already described. The priming and tamping are also done as when 
blockholing boulders. After one cut or bench has been taken out in 
part or over the entire surface of the cellar or trench, the second cut 
of three or four feet may be commenced and the excavatini^ con- 
tinued in this way until the proper depth is reached. 

When the cellar foundations are to be in earth or shale the 
blasting is done as in road grading already described. A small shal- 
low cellar not larger than fifteen by twenty feet nor deeper than four 
feet can be economically excavated in earth almost entirely and with 
practically no shovelling by drilling holes three feet apart each way 
and three feet nine inches deep and exploding in each one a I '/4 x 
8-inch cartridge of Hercules 60% Dynamite. The explosion spreads 
practically all of the earth excavated over the adjacent ground for 
some distance. 

The charges should each be primed with an electric fuze, should 
be well tamped, and be all exploded together with a blasting ma- 
chine. See pages II to 1 5 for proper methods of priming, charging, 
tamping and firing. 

TRENCHING FOR TILING AND PIPE LINES 

This work can be done by using dynamite as when blasting 
ditches. The holes should, however, always be pointed straight 
down and the charges should be slightly reduced so as to prevent 
throwing the earth, required for filling the trenches, too far away. 

SINKING WELLS 

Wells are generally sunk through rock or ground which cannot 
be dug to advantage without the aid of explosives. In well sinking, 
when rock is reached and the earth or sand above is properly shored, 
a circle of four or five drill holes should be started about half-way 
between the center and the sides of the well and pointed at such an 
angle that they will come close together near the center when they are 
three or four feet deep. These holes should be loaded about half 
full of Hercules 40% Gelatin Dynamite, with damp clay tamping 
packed firmly above to the top of the hole, and then exploded all 
together from the surface by electricity. The result of this shot will 
be to blow out a funnel-shaped opening in the center, and the bottom 

57 



DYNAMITING SUBSOIL 



can then be squared up with another circle of holes drilled straight 
down as close to the sides as possible. If the well is large it may be 
necessary to drill a circle of holes between the inner and outer circle. 
The above process should be repeated until the well has passed 
through the rock or has been sunk to the necessary depth. See pages 
II to 1 5 for proper methods of priming, charging, tamping and 
firing. 

DIGGING HOLES FOR POLES AND POSTS 

Only enough dynamite should be used in this work to make the 
digging easy because larger charges loosen the ground to such an 
extent that it is difficult to make the poles or posts as firm as they 
should be. This applies particularly to large poles. 

To do this blasting a hole is bored into the ground within six 
inches of the desired depth of the hole. In the bottom of this hole 
from one-quarter of a cartridge to one cartridge of Red Cross 40% 
Extra Dynamite is exploded. No tamping should be done, as this 
would cause the dynamite to lessen the ground too much. See pages 
11 to 1 5 for proper methods of priming, charging and firing. 

SHATTERING SUBSOIL AND HARDPAN 

In the ordinary clay subsoil and in plow soil holes should be 
spaced fifteen to twenty feet apart each way r.nd drilled from two 
and a half to three feet deep. Each of these should be charged with 
a half of a 1 1/4 x 8-inch cartridge of Red Cross 25% Extra Dyna- 
mite primed with blasting cap and fuse. The holes should then be 
filled compactly with tamping to the surface. Holes may be put 
down either with the subsoil bar or with a dirt auger. The ex- 
plosion of the charge should not affect the surface mucli because most 
of the force of the dynamite is given to breaking and shattering the 
subsoil from seven to ten feet around the hole. 

When blasting hardpan the holes should be bored to within 
about SIX inches of the bottom of the hardpan and the charge of dyna- 
mite placed at that point, the object being to shatter the greatest area 
possible and not to merely make a chamber in the ground underneath 
it. The spacing of holes and kind of dynamite should be approxi- 
mately the same as when blasting ordinary subsoil. In some places, 
however, where the hardpan is unusually thick and deep, it is neces- 
sary to use two-thirds of a cartridge or a whole one in each hole. 

58 



TREE PLANTING AND CULTIVATING 



In some kinds of hardpan, like cemented gravel, it may be neces- 
sary to vary a little the instructions given above. These instructions 
will, how^ever, answer for a guide until practice shows that some 
slight changes in the way of blasting these irregular hardpans will 
be of advantage. If properly done it may not be necessary to blast 
subsoil or hardpan more often than once in ten years. 

The results are better if subsoil blasting is done when the ground 

is fairly dry because wet subsoil is not so easily cracked and shattered 

as that which is dryer. 

Table Showing the Approximate Number of Pounds of Dynamite Required 
and the Approximate Cost, Including Explosives, Blasting Supplies and Labor, to 
Blast an Acre of Subsoil or Hardpan. 



Distance Between 
Holes Each Way 


No. of P4"x8" 

Cartridges of Red Cross 
23 ',c Extra Dynamite 


. Ml Approximate Cost 
Approximate TJumber \ \ v r\ 

, „ \ t y-\ Including Dynamite, 
ol rounds ol Uyna- me i 

. Lslasting bupplies 
mite per Acre , , , 

and Labor 


20 ft. 
15 ft. 


1/ 


27', lbs. 
50 lbs. 


$ 9.00 
15.00 



See pages 11 to I 5 for proper methods of priming, charging, 
tamping and firing. 

PLANTING AND CULTIVATING TREES, 
GRAPEVINES, ETC. 

The principal object when using dynamite in planting and cul- 
tivating fruit and other trees, grape-vines, etc., is to open up the sub- 
soil so as to make room for root growth, conserve moisture and to 
properly drain the surface. This work is, therefore, very much the 
same as subsoil blasting. When preparing the ground for new trees 
the holes are generally bored about thirty inches deep on the spot 
where the tree is to stand and are charged with one cartridge each of 
Red Cross 25% Extra Dynamite primed with fuse and blasting cap. 
In many places it is the custom to shovel off the fertile top soil in a cir- 
cle about the hole before blasting and to pile this to one side for filling 
up the blasted hole to the proper level. 

When cultivating orchards by blasting between the trees the 
spacing of the holes depends on how far apart the trees are planted 
and the condition of the subsoil. In California and other States 
where many orchards grow over hardpan, holes are often drilled 

60 



TREE PLANTING AND CULTIVATING 



from three to five feet deep and sometimes only six feet away from 
the trees. When the holes are withm six feet of the trees the charge 
is reduced to three-quarters or a half of a cartridge. The general 
rule, however, when cultivatmg fruit trees, is to bore the holes three 
feet deep midway between the trees on diagonal lines when they 
stand fifteen to twenty feet apart, midway between them on square 
lines when they are twenty to thirty feet apart and on three sides of 
each tree ten feet away from it when they are more than thirty feet 
apart. 

CHART I 

xxxxxxxxx>:xx 
ooooooooooo 

xxxxxxxxxxxx 
ooooooooooo 

xxxxxxxxxxxx 
ooooooooooo 

xxxxxxxxxxxx 

Diagram showing location of holes for blasting when trees are 15 feet to 20 feet apart 
X = tree; O = hole for dynamite 













CHART 


II 












X o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


O X 


o 


o 




o 




o 




o 




o 




o 


o 


X o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


O X 


o 


o 




o 




o 




o 




o 




o 


o 


X o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


O X 


o 


o 




o 




o 




o 




o 




o 


o 


X o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


o 


X 


O X 


Diagram 


showing location of holes for blasting 
X = tree; O = hole 


when trees are 20 feet to 30 f 
■ for dynamite 


eet apart 












CHART 


III 












X 




X 






X 




X 






X 




X 


o o 




o 


o 


o 


o 


1 





o 


o 


o 




o o 


o 




o 






o 




o 






o 




o 


X 




X 






X 




X 






X 




X 


o o 




o 


o 


o 


o 


( 





o 


o 


o 




o o 


o 




o 






o 




o 






o 




o 


X 




X 






X 




X 






X 




X 


o o 




o 


o 


o 


o 




o 


o 


o 


o 




o o 



Diagram showing location of holes for blasting when trees are more than ;!l) feet apart 
X = tree; O = hole for dynamite 

61 



BLASTING ICE GORGES 



Table showing Location of Holes, Average Number of Holes per Acre, 
Average Amount of Red Cross 25'/r Extra Dynamite 1 '4 x 8 per Acre and 
Approximate Cost of Cultivating an Acre Including Dynamite, Blasting Supplies 
and Labor, v^hen Trees are Planted at Different Distances. 



Distance 

of Trees 

Apart 


Location of Hole for Dynamite 


Number of Amount of 
Holes Dynamite 
per Acre per Acre 


Cost of Blasting an 
Acre Including Dyna- 
mite, Blasting Supplies 
and Labor 


15 ft. 


Midway Between on Diagonal Lines 


194 


97 lbs. 




$25.00 


18 ft. 


" 


134 


67 lbs. 




18.00 


20 ft. 


" 


109 


55 lbs. 




13.50 


25 ft. 


Square 


140 


70 lbs. 




19.00 


30 ft. 





96 


48 lbs. 




12.50 


35 ft. 


Ten Feet from Tree on Three Sides 


108 


54 lbs. 




13.50 


40 ft. 


" 


78 


39 lbs. 




10.50 


50 ft. 




51 


26 lbs. 




7.00 



When an old tree is to be blasted out to make room for a new 
one, proceed as explained on page 40. See pages II to 1 5 for proper 
methods of priming, charging, tamping and firing. 



BLASTING ICE 

Ice gorges are prevented by shattering the large floating cakes 
with dynamite so that they will not lodge at dams or in the narrow 
parts of the stream. To break these cakes several cartridges of 
dynamite tied together in a bundle are laid on the ice and exploded. 
This is repeated until the cake is thoroughly shattered and broken up. 
The size of the charge and the number of times the blasting must be 
repeated depend altogether on the thickness of the ice and the size 
of the cake. One cartridge of the bundle is primed with blasting cap 
and fuse and the dynamite must be thoroughly thawed when it is 
laid on the ice. This blasting can be done best along broad, slow- 
moving parts of the stream where it is easy to get on to the ice cakes 
either from the shore or from boats. When the streams are narrow 
the charges of dynamite may be thrown on to the ice from the shores 
or, if the ice is running swiftly, they may be dropped on to the cakes 
from the down-stream side of bridges. When the charges, consisting 

62 



BLASTING ICE GORGES 

of two or more cartridges tied together in a bundle, are to be thrown 
on to the floating ice either from bridges or the shore a block of wood, 
piece of board or something of that kind should be tied to the charge 
to keep it from rolling out of position after it lands on the ice. As it 
is necessary when blasting ice in this way to light the fuse while the 
dynamite is in the hands of the blaster, particular attention must be 
given to having the fuse plenty long enough and the charge must be 
thrown just as soon as the fuse is lighted. 

The following table gives the approximate quantity of Red Cross 
40% Dynamite required to break floating ice cakes of different thick- 
ness when the dynamite is exploded on the surface of the ice. The 
number of charges necessary depends on the size and extent of the 
ice cake : 



_, . , , , „ , Approximate Number of 1 '4 x 

1 hickness or Ice Cakes /- • 1 

I Carttidees 



12 in. 2 to 3 

24 in. 6 to 8 

36 in. 10 to 12 



To open ice gorges already formed, a channel should be cut 
through them beginning on the down-stream side and working up 
stream along the line of the strongest current. This channel should be 
about fifty feet wide, and if the gorge does not move after the channel 
has been cut through, it will then be necessary to begin at the down- 
stream side of the gorge again and widen the channel until the ice 
has been carried away. 

To cut the channel, holes are cut with an ax or bar through the 
ice twenty to thirty feet apart. These holes are laid out in a semi- 
circle with the two end holes about twenty to thirty feet back from 
the open water and fifty feet apart. 

63 



BLASTING ICE GORGES 




DIAGRAM SHOWING LOCATION OF ROW OF HOLES FOR 
BLASTING AN ICE GORGE 



The charge, consisting of several 1 1/^ x 8-mch cartridges of Red 
Cross 40% Dynamite, is tied securely together with string, one of the 
cartridges having been primed with a Victor Waterproof Electric 
Fuze. When the charges for all of the holes are prepared they are con- 
nected together and to the leading wires. Each charge is then lowered 
by the electric fuze wires into the water and pushed under the down- 
stream ice with the tamping stick. If the current is strong enough to 
carry the charge down stream the electric fuze wires should be long 
enough to let it float six or eight feet below the holes. The explosion 
of all of these charges simultaneously by the operation of the blasting 
machine, will break up the first fifty or sixty feet of the channel and the 
broken ice will immediately float away unless the current of the stream 
is very sluggish. In that case the broken ice should be pushed out with 
poles into open water before it has time to freeze in place again. 
This same operation is repeated, cutting out fifty or sixty feet or more 
of the channel with each blast until the gorge has been cut through. If 
the ice is from two to four feet thick the charge in each hole should be 
from two to five I Y4 x 8-inch cartridges of Red Cross 40% Dyna- 
mite. In ice six to eight feet thick, each charge must be increased to 
ten or twelve cartridges. When the ice is thick, and large charges are 
necessary, the holes have to be from six to twelve inches in diameter 
in order to get the bundle of cartridges through them. These large 



64 



STARTING L O G JAM S 

holes can be cut through the ice more easily by exploding half car- 
tridges of the dynamite in small holes made with bars. 

In this work particular attention should be given to having the 
dynamite li a well-thawed and soft condition when it is used. 

Ice is blasted from watering places for stock either by exploding 
the dynamite on the ice or in the water under the ice. See pages 
II to 1 5 for proper methods of priming, charging, tamping and firing. 



STARTING LOG JAMS 

To start log jams with dynamite the charge of several cartridges 
or in some instances of many pounds of dynamite is exploded on or 
under the logs forming the key of the jam. If smaller charges are 
enough, the cartridges are tied in a bundle as when blasting ice. If 
charges of fifty pounds or more are necessary the dynamite may be put 
in a bag or left in the original wooden cases. The charge is primed 
with a Victor Waterproof Electric Fuze and after being firmly 
s*^cured in the proper position is exploded from the shore with a 
blasting machine. 

Blocks in log rollways caused by rain and snow freezing and 
binding the logs together are broken up by exploding charges of dyna- 
mite in different places under the logs until they are loosened and can 
be rolled apart. 

Red Cross 40' v Dynamite is recommended for starting log jams 
and for opening the rollways. See pages I I to I 5 for proper methods 
of priming, charging, tamping and firing. 



OTHER USES FOR DYNAMITE ON THE FARM 

After becoming thoroughly acquainted with the use of dynamite 
for any or all of the work described in the previous pages many other 
uses for small quantities of it will arise from time to time. If the 
instructions already given do not appear to cover the situation a letter 
addressed to Agricultural Department, E. I. du Pont de Nemours 
Powder Co., Wilmington, Delaware, explaining the work to be done, 
will be promptly answered, giving detailed instructions. 

66 



SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 

DON'T forget the nature of explosives, but remember that with 

proper care they can be handled with comparative safety. 
DON'T smoke while you are handling explosives, and DON'T 
handle explosives near an open light, because a spark may 
ignite them. 
DON'T shoot into explosives with a rifle or pistol either in or out of 
a magazine, for the impact of a bullet will generally de- 
tonate explosives. 
DON'T leave explosives in a field or any place where stock can 
get at them. Cattle like the taste of the soda and saltpetre 
in explosives, but the other ingredients would probably 
make them sick or kill them. 
DON'T handle or store explosives in or near a residence, because 
an accidental explosion might then cause great loss of life. 
DON'T leave explosives in a wet or damp place, because dampness 
may quickly injure them. They should be kept in a suit- 
able dry place, not too warm, under lock and key, and 
where children or irresponsible persons cannot get at them. 
DON'T explode a charge to chamber a bore hole and then im- 
mediately reload it, as the bore hole will be hot, and the 
second charge may explode prematurely. 
DON'T tamp with iron or steel bars or tools, because the metal 
tools may detonate the explosives. Use only a wooden 
tamping stick with no metal parts. 
DON'T force a primer into a bore hole, because the detonator 
which it contains is somewhat sensitive to shock and might 
explode if pushed with much force against the side or 
bottom of the bore hole. 
DON'T explode a charge before everyone is well beyond the danger 
zone and protected from flying debris. Protect your sup- 
ply of explosives also from danger from this source. 
DON'T hurry in seeking an explanation for the failure of a charge 
to explode, because fuse sometimes burns more slowly than 
it is opected to. 
DON'T drill, bore or pick out a charge which has failed to explode, 
because this may cause an accidental explosion. Drill 
and charge another bore hole at least two feet from the 
missed one. 
DON'T cut dynamite cartridges with a folding knife. Use a sharp 
case-knife. A little dynamite might get into the joint of a 
pocket knife, and explode when the blade is snapped open. 
67 



SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 

DON'T use two kinds of explosives in the same bore hole, except 
where one is used as a primer to detonate the other, as 
where dynamite is used to detonate Judson Powder. The 
quicker explosive may open cracks in the rock and allow 
the slower to blow out through these cracks, doing little 
or no work. 

DON'T use frozen or chilled dynamite, because it is insensitive and 
may not do good work. Dynamite, other than Red 
Cross, often freezes at a temperature between 45^ F. and 
50 F. 

DON'T use any arrangement for thawing dynamite other than one 
of those recommended by the DU PONT COMPANY, 
because we recommend all of the safe ones. 

DON'T thaw dynamite on heated stoves, rocks, bricks or metal, or 
in an oven, and don't thaw dynamite in front of, near or 
over a steam boiler or lire of any kind, because dynamite 
explodes very easily when it becomes hot. 

DON'T take dynamite into or near a blacksmith shop or near a 
forge on open work, because sparks may fall upon it. 

DON'T put dynamite on shelves or anything else directly over steam 
or hot Avater pipes or other heated metal surface, because 
some of the nitro-glycerin in it might soak out and drop 
on to the hot metal and cause an explosion. 

DON'T cut or break a dynamite cartridge while it is frozen, and 
don't rub a cartridge of dynamite in the hands to com- 
plete thawing. 

DON'T place a hot-water thawer over a fire, because there is 
usually some nitro-glycerin in these thawers which would 
be exploded by the heat, and never put dynamite into hot 
water or allov/ it to come. in contant with steam, as this 
damages the dynamite. 

DON'T allow thawed dynamite to remain exposed to low tem- 
perature, but use as soon as possible, for some kinds freeze 
again very quickly in cold weather. 

DON'T prime a dynamite cartridge or charge or connect bore holes 
for electric firing during the immediate aporoach or progress 
of a thunder storm, because a lightning flash may explode 
the electric fuzes. 

DON'T carry blasting caps or electric fuzes in your pocket, for if 
you do and they explode accidentally you will be badly 
injured. ^g 



SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 

DON'T tap or otherwise investigate a blasting cap or electric fuze, 
because they are quite sensitive to shock. 

DON'T attempt to take blasting caps from the box by inserting a 
wire, nail or other sharp instrument, because the metal 
rubbing against the explosive in them might cause them to 
explode. 

DON'T try to withdraw the wires from an electric fuze, because 
this might cause it to explode. 

DON'T fasten a blasting cap to the fuse with the teeth or by flatten- 
ing it with a knife, because this is dangerous and also makes 
a very imperfect jomt. Use a cap crimper. 

DON'T keep electric fuzes, blasting machines or blasting caps in a 
damp place, because dampness damages them. 

DON'T attempt to use electric fuzes with the regular insulation in 
very wet work, as they may become damp and fail to ex- 
plode. For this purpose secure Victor Waterproof Elec- 
tric Fuzes. 

DON'T store or transport blasting caps or electric fuzes with dyna- 
mite, because they are more easily exploded by shock or 
heat than is dynamite, and when they explode will prob- 
ably detonate the dynamite near them. 

DON'T worry along with old, broken leading wire or connecting 
wire. A new supply won't cost much and will pay for 
itself many times over. 

DON'T operate blasting machines half heartedly. If you do you 
can't be sure they will do the work required of them. 
They are built to be operated with full force. They must 
be kept clean and dry. 

DON'T handle fuse carelessly in cold weather, for when cold it is 
stiff and breaks easily. 

DON'T store fuse in a hot place, as this may dry it out so that un- 
coiling will break it. 

DON'T lace fuse through dynamite cartridges. This practice is 
frequently responsible for the burning of the charge. 

DON'T cut the safety fuse short to save time. It is a dangerous 
economy. 

DON'T expect a cheap article to give as good results as a high 
grade one. 

DON'T expect dynamite to do good work if you try to explode it 
with a detonator weaker than a No. 6 (red label). 
69 



IS DYNAMITE DANGEROUS TO USE? 

These numerous '' DON'TS " are not intended to frighten 
anyone. If they are carefully read it will be found that there is 
nothing alarming about them. We simply aim to mention every 
possible danger connected with the use of dynamite. There is no 
part of our instructions, however, that is not very simple and very 
easily followed, and when these proper precautions are taken no one 
need have any more fear of working with dynamite than with gasoline, 
steam or any other similarly powerful agent. 

One of the safest explosives manufactured by the E. I. du Pont 
de Nemours Powder Company is Red Cross Dynamite (Low 
Freezing) which is especially recommended for agricultural purposes. 
In practice this brand of dynam.ite is exploded by a powerful shock, 
such as is produced by a strong blasting cap or an electric fuze. 

Approximately half a million people are using dynamite every 
day. These include miners, blasters employed on road and railroad 
construction, quarrymen, and many others. Careful record of all 
accidents to users of dynamite in the year 1910 show casualties of less 
than |/8 of 1 % , and most of these accidents are known to have been 
caused by failure to observe the simple and clear precautions such as 
we list in this book. The only reason so many people fear dynamite 
is because it is something that they do not understand. They are 
not accustomed to handling it or using it, but because they know of 
its power they fear it. 

Mr. E. S. Harding of Amhurst, Va., had never used dyna- 
mite up to September 28, 1911. He was afraid of it, but after ex- 
perimenting with it in the blasting of stumps on his farm, he wrote us 
as follows: 

" I had always thought, with many others, that dynamite was 
only for experts, and dangerous to handle, but now realize that if your 
instructions are obeyed it may be safely handled by anyone having 
ordinary com.mon sense." 

Mr. B. P. Moats, President of the Rosemar Orchard Company 
of Parkersburg, W. Va., says: 

" We used approximately a ton of dynamite this season without 
the slightest accident. The men become familiar with its use and do 
not consider the labor hazardous." 

70 



HOW TO GET SPECIAL INFORMATION 

In writing this Handbook, we have attempted to give all gen- 
eral information possible, and wherever possible have explained de- 
tails of the approved methods of clearing land of stumps and boulders, 
subsoiling, draining swamps and ponds, digging ditches, etc. Never- 
theless many unusual conditions in connection with these various 
kinds of blasting may be met with which are not covered fully enough 
to make it possible for the reader to proceed with the particular kind 
of blasting he desires to do, without considerable uncertainty. If 
this happens, we would be very glad to have you write us stating 
exactly what your difficulties are, and on receipt of your communi- 
cation we will be glad to do what we can to help you out. In order 
to save writing we attach the following perforated sheets, one or more 
of which can be taken from the Handbook, filled out and mailed to 
us. The first of these is to be used if stump, tree or boulder blast- 
ing is to be done, the second for subsoiling, the third for draining 
swamps or ponds, the fourth for ditching, the fifth for tree planting 
or cultivating, the sixth for all other kinds of blasting. 




^^ 



LEARN TRAP SHOOTING 



AN ALL YEAR ROUND SPORT 



Closely parallels actual hunting conditions. 
The open air — the sudden, swift flight of the 
bird — the opportunity for quick, accurate shooting — all combine to 
make trap shootmg 



Fascinating and Healthful 



Quickly develops the new shooter into a skilled shot because 
of the opportunity for regular and continuous practice under 
favorable conditions and pleasant surroundings. 

Trap shooting keeps the old hunter from getting rusty between 
game seasons. The clay pigeons fly every day in the year. 

Join your local Gun Club — If there's none nearby, start a 
gun club. We will help. 

Our Gun Club Booklet explains how to go about organizing 
a club, the rules of the game, etc. Write for it. It's free. 

E. L du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Wilmington, Del. 

12 




Sporting Powders 

MAKE AND BREAK RECORDS AT THE TRAPS 

AND 

ARE UNEQUALLED IN THE FIELD 



DU PONT SMOKELESS SPORTING POWDERS ARE CHEMICALLY 
PURE AND WILL NOT PIT THE GUN BARRELS 




RALLISTITF 

■^ A PERFECT Im 
DENSE' SMOKELESS POWDER 




'"'•'■ 'llm,™'^"" 



(OPU) EMPIRE 

^•— ** — -^^ 'bulk smokeless powder 



BLACK SPORTING POWDERS 

UNEQUALLED FOR SHOTGUNS AND RIFLES 






Perfection in Sporting Powders is only obtained by the employment of the 

most skillful workmen, the operation of the most improved machinery 

and the exercise of the most scrupulous care in the selection 

and preparation of raw material. 

Du Pont Sporting Powders are Fully Guaranteed by the Pioneer 
Powder Makers of America. 

SPORTING POWDER LITERATURE SENT ON REQUEST 

E. I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Wilmington, Del. 



73 



"^^^ TRADE MARK "^^^ 

FABRIKOlD 



COSTS LESS— LOOKS BETTER THAN AND 
WEARS AS WELL AS LEATHER 



-WATER PROOF GREASE PROOF 

SUN PROOF DURABLE 

TOUGH AND STRONG 



ALL COLORS, GRAINS AND WEIGHTS 



Rapidly displacing leather for Buggy Tops, 
Cushions, Backs, Auto Top Covers and 
Spare Tire Cases, Buggy Boots, Lamp 
Covers, Storm Aprons, Go-carts, Furniture 
Upholstering, Mural Decorations, Trunks, 
Bags, Suit Cases, Gun Cases, Pocket 
Books, Card Cases, Spectacle Cases, 
Belts, Music Rolls, Book Binding. .'. 



W^rite for Iiifornicition and Samples 



FABRIKOID WORKS, WILMINGTON, DEL. 

(E. L du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Owner) 

74 



STUMP, TREE OR BOULDER BLASTING 



Agricultural Department, 

* E. I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Wilmington, Del. 

I am about to do some blasting under conditions which are not 
altogether covered in your Farmer's Handbook, and would like to have you fur- 
nish me with the technical information which I ask for below. I have filled out 
the answers to your questions on the back of this sheet describing my problem, 
and also give you additional information below. 

Description of my problem and what I want the 
Du Pont Company to tell me 



Questions that the Du Pont Company Wishes Answered 



Do you want to blast out Stumps, Trees or Boulders ?_ 



How manp acres do you want to clear?. 



About how many Stumps, Trees or Boulders to the acre ?_ 
What is the nature of the soil ? 



Will the ground be wet or dry when you will do the blasting ?_ 
When do you expect to do this? 



What is the average diameter two feet 

above the ground of stumps or trees ?_ 

What is the diameter of the largest ones ? 



What is the diameter of the smallest ones ?_ 
What kind of wood are they ? 



Are the principal roots spreading roots or tap roots ?_ 
How long since the trees were cut from the stumps ?. 
Are the stumps solid, or hollow and rotten ? 



Are you going to burn the stumps after blasting them out ? 
How high are the trees ?__ 



What kind of rock are the boulders ?_ 



What size and shape are they ? 



Are they on top of the ground or partly buried ?_ 



What is your name ? 



What is your post office address ? 



SUBSOILING 



Agricultural Department, 

E. I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Wilmington, Del. 

I am about to do some blasting under conditions which are not 
altogether covered in your Farmer's Handbook, and would like to have you fur- 
nish me with the technical information which I ask for below. I have filled out 
the answers to your questions on the back of this sheet describing my problem, 
and also give you additional information below. 

Description of my problem and what I want the 
Du Pont Company to tell me 



OVER 



Questions that the Du Pont Company Wishes Answered 



How mani) acres do you want to subsoil ?_ 
When do gou expect to do it ? 



What is the nature of the surface soil ? 



How thick is the top soil ? 

What is the nature of the subsoil or hardpan ? 



How thick is it ? 



What is under the subsoil or hardpan ? 
Is vour land flat, rolling or hilly ? 



Is the ground well drained, or is it swampy ? 

Is the land irrigated ? 

What was the last crop? 



Have your crops been suffering from too much or too little moisture ?_ 

What crop do you expect to plant first after blasting ? 

What is your name ? 

What is vour address ? 



DRAINING SWAMPS AND PONDS 



Agricultural Department, 

E. I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Wilmington, Del, 

I am about to do some blasting under conditions which are not 
altogether covered in your Farmer's Handbook, and would like to have you fur- 
nish me with the technical information which I ask for below. I have filled out 
the answers to yoiu" questions on the back of this sheet describing my problem, 
and also give you additional information below. 

Description of my problem and what I want the 
Du Pont Company to tell me 



Questions that the Du Pont Company Wishes Answered 



How large is the swamp or pond ?_ 



How deep is the water in the deepest place ?_ 
Is it fed bg springs or by surface drainage ? 



How thick is the clap under the swamp or pond ? 
Is there rock, sand or gravel under the dag ? 



Is there a river, lake or other large bodg of water near ?^ 



If so, how much higher is the pond or swamp than the body of water ?_ 



Is the pond or swamp permanent or does it dry up at certain seasons? 



What is vour name ?_ 



What is your address ?_ 



DITCHING 



Agricultural Department, 

E. I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Wilmington, Del. 

I am about to do some blasting under conditions which are not 
altogether covered in your Farmer's Handbook, and would like to have you fur- 
nish me with the technical information which I ask for below. I have filled out 
the answers to yoar questions on the back of this sheet describing my problem, 
and also give you additional information below. 

Description of my problem and what I want the 
Du Pont Company to tell me 



Questions that the Du Pont Company Wishes Answered 



How long are the ditches to be ?^ 



How wide and how deep must they be?. 



What is the nature of the ground? 



Is it wet, damp or dri) ? . 



Is it covered with thickets, woods or other growth or is it open ?_ 



What is gour name ? 



What is pour post office address ? 



TREE PLANTING AND CULTIVATING 



Agricultural Department, 

E. I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Wilmington, Del. 

I am about to do some blasting under conditions which are not 
altogether covered in your Farmer's Handbook, and would like to have you fur- 
nish me with the technical information which I ask for below. I have filled out 
the answers to your questions on the back of this sheet describing my problem, 
and also give you additional information below. 

Description of my problem and what I want the 
Du Pont Company to tell me 



OVER 



Questions that the Du Pont Company Wishes Answered 



Are pou going to blast between old trees or blast the holes for new ones? 



How far apart each way are the trees ?. 



What kind of trees are theg ?_ 
How old are they ? 



Are thcij thriftij and bearing well? 



If not, what is the matter with them ? 



How far apart each way will ijou plant new trees 
How deep will you piant them ? . 



Have you planted trees in similar ground before ? 
If so, what per cent, lived? . 



Is the orchard on flat, rolling or hilly ground?. 
What is the nature of the soil? 



I9 the ground too dry or too wet ? . 
What is your name ? 



What is your post office address ? . 



Well Sinking, Opening Log Jams and Ice Gorges, Post 
Hole Digging, Road Grading, Cellar Excavating, etc. 



Agricultural Department, 

E. I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co., Wilmington, Del. 

I am about to do some blasting under conditions which are not 
altogether covered in your Farmer's Handbook, and would like to have you fur- 
nish me with the technical information which I ask for below. I have filled out 
the answers to your questions on the back of this sheet describing my problem, 
and also give you additional information below. 

Description of my problem and what I want the 
Du Pont Company to tell me 



m Q ^^^^ 



NOTE: — It is very necessary that a complete description of the conditions 
surrounding the work you desire to do be given us if we are to give you the 
information that you need. 

What is pour name ? . ^__ 

What is pour post office address ? 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



LltiKHKY U(- UUNbKtbb 




p j i MMM i y flLaiy^:iy^iyjM«Ji>yjiMKJtt ^^iLL^^ "0" ^^2 753 352 

ii 



IPOK 



Branch Oiiices 

Birmingham, Ala. 

Boston, Mass. 

Buffalo, N. Y. 

Chicago, 111. 

Cincinnati, Ohio 
Denver, Col. 

Duluth, Minn. 

Hazleton, Pa. 

Houghton, Mich. 

Huntington,W.Va. 
Joplin, Mo. 

Kansas City, Mo. 

Memphis, Tenn. 

Mexico City, Mexico 

Nashville, Tenn. 
Ne'w Orleans, La. 

New York, N. Y. 

Philadelphia, Pa. 

Pittsburg, Kas. 

Pittsburgh, Pa. 
Portland, Ore. 

Salt Lake City, Utah 

San Francisco, Cal. 

Scranton, Pa. 

Seattle, Wash. 
Spokane, Wash. 

Springfield, 111. 

St. Louis, Mo. 

Terre Haute, Ind. 



I 



_i 



A-48 
OCT. II 



